C4 Problems.. PLEASE HELP
ORIGINAL: moparmatt89
Did you make sure you engaged the torque converter? It clicks in twice i believe. it will click in once then you have to turn it and apply pressure to get it to click in the second time. I believe that if it isnt properly engaged and you try and start the car you can destroy the pump.has anybody else heard this?
Good Luck! Hopefully it's something simple
Did you make sure you engaged the torque converter? It clicks in twice i believe. it will click in once then you have to turn it and apply pressure to get it to click in the second time. I believe that if it isnt properly engaged and you try and start the car you can destroy the pump.has anybody else heard this?
Good Luck! Hopefully it's something simple
You mentioned removing the valve body. Did you simply tighten the bolts untill your arm poped or did you use a torque wrench? C4 transmissions have an aluminum valve body, they are easily warped and overtightening will cause the valves inside to stick and it will never shift right if at all. They have a very light torque spec and even tightening them with a normal 3/8" ratchet is WAAAAY too much. Finger tight, then torque them to spec. I know a guy who overtightens everything, he thinks he is a manly man because he can break bolts. His cars dont run very long as he has no concept of a torque spec. Fixing his cars wasnt fun after he messed them up.
Additionally. A deep pan requires a longer filter tube to work correctly. Pans like the Deraile pans with tubes in the bottom and two or three extra quarts need a longer filter tube or it will suck air. They are designed to sit on the bottom of the pan because when everything is pressureized the fluid is much lower in the pan than when it is off.
You fill the trans by adding 4 quarts, starting the engine, then adding two more quarts while its running. Let it sit for a few minutes so the fluid can drain out of the fill tube and you dont geet a false reading on the stick. Check the fluid and it shouldnt have anything on it if you had a near empty converter. Add half a quart untill something appears on the stick, and after it shows on the sticks tip, add a pint untill its to the full when warm line, of full line. Check for leaks under the car after putting the intial 4 quarts in, and starting the engine.
AFTER filling the trans in the method above, then you can try reverse by holding the brakes and moving the lever into reverse. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE AT THIS TIME! The clutches are dry and you will only burn them if you rev the engine. Once it engages, put it back in park and try reverse again. Reverse has the most line pressure and will work before the forward gears will. After trying reverse twice, move the selctor to LOW 1, or the rear most position on the shifter. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE! Let the trans engage, put in in neutral then LOW 1 again.
Turn the engine off and check for leaks under the car. If no leaks its time for a test drive. Drive it with low throttle settings and increase speed gradually, keep it in LOW 1, then manually shift to LOW 2, after 2nd has engaged, move the lever to D after that engages, stop and make sure reverse still works, but while stopping, downshift manually and make sure you have engine braking in LOW1 and LOW 2. Check again for leaks.
After that feel free to beat on it if all checks out..
Thanks a bunch for that long post... it helped alot. When installing teh tranny i didnt break the pump in the way that you said. I clicked the torque convertor in twice. That is a huge relief to know that that is not the problem. I took the tranny off to check to see if there was fluid in the torque convertor and there was. now im in the process of putting it all back together. The filter on my tranny is deeper than the original. it is about 2 inches deep. I am beginning to wonder if i just had the wrong fluid level or something of the sort. I will check it out after christmas.... As for now its off to the realatives house. I will be back in a couple of days. Thanks for teh help.
Eric
Eric
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