Are you planning on changing the cam on your motor? The Weiand Stealth says in the instructions that it istobe used in conjunction with more aggressive cam profiles,hi-perf ignition and exhaust systems.
No doubt that it would work well but if you are keeping theoriginal camand exhaust thenthis is something to think about.

Available for both 351W (8023) and 289/302 (8020) small block Fords, are Weiand’s advanced hi-rise “Stealth” manifolds.

These are the most advanced dual plane, 180° intakes on the market, combining excellent bottom-end performance with an

exceptionally broad power curve that extends to 6800 RPM. They are ideally suited to a number of applications, including high

performance street and marine use, E.T. Bracket racing, and even RVs, tow vehicles, etc. “Stealth” manifolds are to be used in

conjunction with more aggressive camshaft profiles, high performance ignition, and exhaust systems, etc. They have a square

bore carburetor pad to accommodate 600-850 cfm aftermarket carburetors. The “Stealth” manifolds have been designed to

accept most stock hardware, such as coolant and vacuum lines, coils, and brackets. Little alterations, if any, will be required.

Why the autolite 4100 carb?? Excellent atomization and the whole bowl is made out of one piece of metal - no worries about leaking like a Holley.

 

+10 i learned that the hard way but you only need a dab of it and i would imagine thte reason the autolite didn't last long was production cost ya its a great carb but its all about how cheap you can make it to increase your profit thats why i think that the autolite didn't make it come on ford bought their fuel pumps from gm cause it was cheaper and they bough delphi alternators from them in what like 98 and there were serious electrical issues with those its all about the cheapest way

 

I wasn't planning on changing the cams but if it is fairly simple (grins) and straightforward I'll probably do it.
It would be nice to find a package deal from one place that can supply the swap with one purchase.

 

Don't really want to go used but saw this on Ebay.
What do you guys think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/64-66...spagenameZWDVW

 

its really not that hard..... remember permatex is your friend ; )

oh yeah, and if you throw a cam in there pick up a double row timing chain - a decent roller chain does not cost that much at all (i said to hell with it and threw some "quiet" gears in mine, sounds like a bad power steering pump)

 

Don't buy it. He actually posted a pic of the carb upside down.

 

Stathy - you can get a good Autolite 4100 (either 1.08 or 1.12) for less than what it is currently going for on eBay. Go to the Pony Carbs website and cruise ALL over it. Check everything they have to look at for FAQ and carb ID. Notice the difference between the long snout and the short snout 4100 carbs. The one on eBay appears to be a short snout. Pony Carbs will only rebuild the short snout type. I picked up a 4100 (1.12) and will send it to Pony Carbs to convert it to a spreadbore carb. Should match up real nice on my 289. If I was to swap the cam then I'd put a Weiand Stealth on it but for now the stock manifold will do just fine. Yes - I will be installing a set of Doug's Tri-Y headers but that is after all is done with the motor. Eventually I'll put a331 strokerin it but that won't be for a couple of years...

Regarding the cam swap - not sure why but I keep hearing guys mention that due tosomething not being put into newer oils that it is leading to cams being wiped out during breaking periods. I guess LOTS of cam lube will help fix this but I don't know what the latest verdict is on this. Ever used adegreeing wheel to check your newly installed cam?

 

I just did this same conversion on my 69 302.

I used an Edelbrock F4b intake made in '65 (same as shelby intake)

and a Speed Demon 650vac. secondaries part # 1282010vfe

I also added the Pertronix distributor w/ ignition

Works great.

 

cannon you have my carb

as for breaking in a cam, most people screw up by not letting the motor run at 1500-2000 rpms for 15 minutes after putting new cam in. obviously you want some assembly lube, which doesnt really have to be "cam lube" it can be stp/regular motor oil mixed, or just "assembly lube" we used stp and 10w40 mixed for assembling all our motors and in 5 years i didnt see any come backs from a wiped out cam (and we were regrinding and reparkerizing cams too) so apparently we were doing something right.

 

I would bid on it aggressively. It has been rebuilt, and will probably run just as well as one from Pony Carbs.