Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Hoping to get back into Mustangs eventually, need some advice..

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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 12:03 AM
  #11  
enzedchris's Avatar
enzedchris
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Auckland, New Zealand, living in USA
Default RE: Hoping to get back into Mustangs eventually, need some advice..


ORIGINAL: Soaring

ORIGINAL: enzedchris


ORIGINAL: Soaring

Yeah, the reason the 65-66 models have more floors that rust out than later models is because we can't remove our cowls to clean out the leaves, etc. so that builds up and holds the water next to the metal, causing the cowls to rust out and drip on the floors and stay under the rug next to the floor metal. Good cheap 67-68 models are not available, primarily because of the movie "Gone in 60 Seconds" and the famous Eleanor. You will pay dearly for one when and if you find one. As far as I am concerned, the original 65-66 models are by far the best looking Mustangs. And, they are available because there were so many sold. However, they are not the muscle cars because you can't fit a big block engine in them. But, they are the original Pony cars, and a stroked 289 will be all the fun you can stand.
yeah, i really don't like the 67-68 mainly because of the side scoops, they just look odd to me, 65-66 is best looking to me. i'm getting a pretty much frame off restoration,, only thing i'm not doing is the body work, because that's just not my thing and i would like it professionally done by a good friend. Is there any way to get to that cowl, maybe through the dash, the heater? stick a vacuum in the air intake for the heating system maybe. mine has lots of leaf stems in there. no rust though, at all.
Well, first of all there is no frame, so you can't have a frame off restoration. The restorer can take the hood, trunk lid, front fenders and doors off, but that's it. Yes, you can get to the cowl. You have to take out over 100 spot welds though. And that has to be done with a spot weld drill bit. The fenders and windshield have to come off, then you have to take out the cowl and replace it. The way to do that is in the FAQ up above. If you are not leaking water onto your carpet from the cowl area, you a a lucky one, because that is the most time consuming and expensive repair to a 65-66 Mustang.
by frame off i just mean very thorough. the car has never been in the rain as far as I know, and it was 39,000 miles, we know this because the person we bought it off was the first owner and one of my dads long time friends. i am pretty luck,y it's the most solid non restored 66 i've ever seen.
Old Jan 7, 2007 | 09:40 AM
  #12  
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GodAmGT00
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From: In between Your Mom's Titties, skeet skeet..
Default RE: Hoping to get back into Mustangs eventually, need some advice..

I think that's sort of odd that you can't remove the cowl w/o removing the windshield, and spot welds.. Is this one of the more "trouble spots," to look for?? I've never really looked inside, is it easy to tell if there is debris down there??

Now, the '68s came w/ a 390 as the biggest option, correct?? I don't think I'd go that big.. In fact, I'd more than likely stick w/ a 289/302, and just throw a couple of nice parts on it.. I'm trying to keep in mind, that I'm not buying this car to keep as a treasure or as a trailer queen, since it will be driven, and I do enjoy driving.. I want the appearance to be complete..

What are some of the hardest parts to find for these years, that you guys have noticed??



JT
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