aww thats so frustrating. took me time to learn how to make a good single flare...LOL


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I do have to confess though. Back in 1998 my son and his wife came to live with us with their 3 year old daughter because my son had been separarated from the Army as an MP. At any rate and to make a long story short, he drove my 65 to work while he was living with us because he couldn't afford a DD. Anyhoo.....he ran over a deer at night, and the deer rolled under the 65, taking out the exhaust system and the valances. I tried to straighten out the seat holes and such underneath, but a horn apparently hooked onto one of the holes and tore a strip. Well, it wasn't long enough to weld it shut, so I used some roofing tar to seal it. That scar is still there today, and nobody would ever know it was there unless I pointed it out to them. But, the general rule, is that you don't put undercoating on these classic Mustangs. That's a no-no in the classic mustang world.

 

why is that a no-no? it looks so much better


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EZ where you live you really dont need it. Just prime and paint after scuffing and degreasing it. Up here in the snowy salt country it can give you an extra two to 5 years before it rusts out. But up here if driven in winter it will rust out.

And yeah, do the double flare, its worth the time and effort to be safe. more info for ya Dude.. read up a bit, its good info.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_07..._steel_tubing/

 

i didnt even degrease the bottom...just hit it with a power washer and let it dry then sprayed away...LOL


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thumpin that link confused the hell out of me...are thier directions out of order or something?


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ya you need to double flare, they usually have the tool on loan at any auto store that has a loan a tool program. when you cut off the single flare make sure to use a hacksaw. if you use one of those line cutters that you just spin around the line it will make it impossible to do a double flare. we did this and we couldnt figure out why we couldnt get a double flare out of it then we took it to a machine shop and they said you need to use a hacksaw because the line cutters do something to the metal that will prevent you from getting a double flare. oh and i would practice on some extra line before you go for the real ones.

 

Sorry to say it and my eyes could be playing tricks on me, but is there a slight kink in the line running from the center of the master cylinder where it bends out towards the inner fender? Kinda hard to tell without a close up. Not trying to be picky, I plan on practicing on some old tubing before I install the actual brake lines on mine just to try and minimize the chance that I kink the line. Even a little kinking (anything other thana smooth continuous bend) will create a weak spot. I plan on getting a guy at work who has done this stuff before to help me. He has the tools and the experience. Hopefully, a six pack of good beer and a pizza will do the trick.

I see the high in Boise was 26 degrees Thursday. I ought to call my mom, who lives in Caldwell, Idaho,and whine about how cold it is here; low of 28 today.

 

i see what you are saying. i think it might be a mark from where the sticker came off the tubing. i will check tonight when i go home. i used a bending tool for all the bends and i inspected each bend so i doubts its a kink