I have replaced the front drum brakes with the Granada (G)discs including using new outer (G) tie rod ends. According to all info, the linkage should be right. However, with all the "take up" (both tie rod sleeves, etc ) considered am about 1 & 1/2 inches too long. The vehicle is still surpported on frame rails with suspension at its most downward position and some of this "extra" linkage will be lost when vehicle in normal riding position. What did I miss here? I did also drop the upper inner control mountings apprx 1 1/2 inch.( a 65 Shelby conversion). Am sure I will have bump steer problem also.
Anyone been down this road?

Thanks
Retro Tom

 

DUH!
Forgot to describe vehicle. It is just a plain jane 65 coupe with 302. Also, did rebuild the rest of suspension while out.

 

Hi Tom,
I'm sitting in the same boat as of today. No kidding. I have found that I had to shorten the threaded portions of both the inner and outer tie rods to get the proper amount of toe in. (I also am using the Baer Tracker Bump Steer kit). With the car still on jack stands do a rough estimate of the proper toe in (remember it is rough since the weight of thecar isn't on the wheels) then hold the tie rods up and point them at each other. You can then hold up the adjuster between the tie rod ends and see almost exactly where you have to cut the tie rods and make a mark with a Sharpie marker. After cutting the tie rods (You will probably need to shorten the adjuster as well - about 1/8" off each end should be close) make triple sure that you clean off any cutting debris because if it gets into the threads and you try to screw on the adjuster you will get major binding.

Good luck !

 

The Shelby drop is 1.0 inch. Any more and you risk binding up the upper ball joint. Some users experience minor problems gettingenough toe out when using original Granada spindles on 65-66 Mustang. I emphasis minor, not 1". Post some pics of the tie rod/sleeve and we'll see.

 

The actual drop at the upper control arm inner "shaft" is one inch. Have Read that overall drop would be about 1 3/4.in front. Am not familiar with the Baer Tracker, but will google and see what it is.
Am able to preload suspenion somewhat while supported and will advise of my efforts.
Notice you Guys list your vehicles here. I gave up on the 67 coupe as body too bad. It had become an anode somehow in last 2 years. Justed pulled the powertrain and pushed it out the door. The motor is somewhat juiced with 4 speed. Don't know if it is 289 or 302 with a 750 Holley. BTW, what company put out a good carb rebuild spec sheet for the Holley. I have misplaced a idle ball, I think.
However, am getting too old to push hard clutch. Also have an AOD built up and prob will make the switch.
Also have a 72 merc with 351 Windsor "waiting" for me to get all ducks in row. This veh has been in family snice new and has just 100K miles! I really want to massage that one. If I live long enough, will eventully put it in the 65 after going heavy in the bottom end and hiding it under a 2300 autolite carb.


Thanks for the tips and additional info.

Retro Tom

 

Tom,
Here are some links (in no particular order) that are excellent resources for Mustang info. These guys have been there and done that. You'll find info on the Shelby drop mod / setting your specs for front end alignment (definately DON'T align to factory book specs) - but rather get it set at the recommended numbers on Daze's or Open Tracker (John's) website. You can get lost in these links but all are WELL worth reading each and everything on their websites before you go much further.
Good luck and welcome to the board.
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/DazeCars

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/

BTW - The Baer Tracker bump steer kit lowers the attachment point for the outer tie rod. It helps with the suspension geometry and aids in reducing the amount of bump steer in the car. You can google the kit or go to John's (Open Tracker) website and check it out there.

 

Wow! All that info on conversions. I did not know about these sites prior and made changeover based on short 1989 or 90 mag article(old Mustang Monthly mag)
Thanks
NOw I want to back and redo the perches and strut rods, but will wait until get these kinks out first.

 

Get the roller perches from John at Open Tracker, you can get a less expensive but high quality set of adjustable strut rods from Glen at Rosehill Performance : E-mail: sales@rosehillperformanceparts.com

Website: http://www.rosehillperformanceparts.com/

That is what I have on my car...





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