Shelby Drop?
Ok, we got the front springs pulled out of the 65 coupe with the intent of shorting them about an inch for a better stance. After getting them out (a hair rasing experence if there ever was one) I thought about perhaps doing the Shelby drop mod. So...good idea or bad? I have researched the FAQ section and from what I can tell if I'm going to be doing heavy cornering it's a good mod. The info says that doing the mod will give about 1/2 inch drop so I may only have to shorten the springs about 1/2 inch for a total drop of the front endabout 1 inch. Any thoughts?
Do you have the template? Definately make sure to get the holes in the correct locations or you will dork up your handling big time. I made a metal template by spraying sticky stuff on some 3/8" thick metal plate and slapping the paper template onto it then putting holes in the appropriate places. Notice that the drop mod is different based upon whether you have a 65/66 or 67/68. Drilling the hole to 1/2" is fine - you don't need to make it 17/32". Wiggle the bit just a little if you need to enlarge it.
Upgrade your upper control arms to a heavy duty Moog ball joint (John at OpenTracker Racing can help you with this).
DEFINATELY worth doing.
(Scary messing with those springs - huh?!)
BTW - when you print this out make sure to take it to the local copy shop along with a ruler so that you can enlarge/shrink it correctly so that on the paper the holes are 1" apart.
[IMG]local://upfiles/44155/42C761E8F3AC48C281381E9A48B377C6.jpg[/IMG]
Upgrade your upper control arms to a heavy duty Moog ball joint (John at OpenTracker Racing can help you with this).
DEFINATELY worth doing.
(Scary messing with those springs - huh?!)
BTW - when you print this out make sure to take it to the local copy shop along with a ruler so that you can enlarge/shrink it correctly so that on the paper the holes are 1" apart.
[IMG]local://upfiles/44155/42C761E8F3AC48C281381E9A48B377C6.jpg[/IMG]
Maybe thats why my car stayed screwed up with the Shelby drop. I just printed it out, and then drilled the holes and slapped it back together. I had to put it back to straighten the front end out, and it looks like it's starting to do it again. Who wants to buy a 66 mustang?
ORIGINAL: Scott H.
I am a big fan of Klaus Arning's modification. The idea is that the tire gains negative camber when the suspension compresses, as happens when the outside sping compresses going through a turn. This helps keep more of the traction surface of the tire in contact with the ground. I prefer between a quarter and half degree of negative camber at ride height.
If you are going to run radial tires, you will also want to increase the caster.
As for a template, I've used graph paper (1/4" squares) many times with excellent results. It's accurate and cheap.
Good luck,
I am a big fan of Klaus Arning's modification. The idea is that the tire gains negative camber when the suspension compresses, as happens when the outside sping compresses going through a turn. This helps keep more of the traction surface of the tire in contact with the ground. I prefer between a quarter and half degree of negative camber at ride height.
If you are going to run radial tires, you will also want to increase the caster.
As for a template, I've used graph paper (1/4" squares) many times with excellent results. It's accurate and cheap.
Good luck,


