true you lower the upper control arm to make the car handle better every shelby mustang and trans am raced mustang did it check the faq for it

 

i wanna know all the stuff that is involved because i am gunna do this with a 620 spring and i wanna know what i need to do to make it work right

 

I just did it and I think this is pretty easy, the hard part was finding the drill bit (an odd size and cost $17 when I found it).

Definitely don't cut the springs, buy the springs that are meant to lower the car - they are cheap and you need a certain set compression rate to have them work properly. There is a guy on here with a blue mustang with white stripes and his car has the 1" lower coil springs with the shelby drop and 17" x 8" rims and it has a very cool stance (they also have his picture on the 17" x 8" krager rims they sell on ebay)

 

Don't worry about finding a 17/32 bit - you can drill the hole to 1/2" and it will work. If the hole is just a tiny bit small then very scientifically "wiggle" the bit in a circle to open the hole just a bit. You don't want the UCA posts fitting sloppy into the holes you drilled so start with a 1/2" bit.

Here is a pic of the metal template I made. Bolt this into place where the original holes are located then that will give you a 1/8" pilot hole to start the new location. BTW- this template is for a '65-'66 Mustang since the new holes are offset by 1/8" rearward (of course you have to flip the plate when you do the other side to make sure the new hole location is always located towards the rear of the car. DUH - I am sure everyone knows that but just wanted to make sure Mr. Murphy doesn't rear his ugly head at this point...) The large bolts go through the original holes and the new location hole is where the 1/8" hole is located. Clear as mud?



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68SCode...that metal template idea is great advice!

Glen, is there a way you can add those pics to the FAQ?

 

you can buy those metal templates from john dinkelif you can't be arsed to make your own

 

I can add it, but first I need Tony's permission to use his pictures.

 

Give me a link to John Dinkel so I can include that with the update with the pics.

 

Sure Glen (you can always use anything I post on here, no need to ask me)- go ahead and use the pics. I can take better or larger ones with the bolts removed so that it is crystal clear as to how it works...

BTW - I mentioned it toJohn a while back and he thought that it was a good idea. Glad to see that he is making metal templates too.

I figured that I should make a metal template so that the holes would be dead on. I just know my luck and if I were trying to work off a paper template stuck to the shock tower SOMEHOW I'd get the drill bit started in the wrong spot and then off it would go making a gouge that wouldn't allow me to get a good spot again. I am finally learning to listen to my inner voice when it speaks to me and warns me of my own stupidity...

(You'll notice the tape around the bolt - that was to make sure the bolt was perfectly centered in the hole on the template. Make sure to use long enough bolts to reach through the shock tower but not so long as to run into the exhaust.)


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FWIW, my Global West suspension also came with a steel template similar to that above. It really mad it kind of foolproof. I'm pretty sure I still have it, so if somebody in the L.A. area ever wants to borrow it, shoot me a message. Heck, I guess I could probably mail it somewhere as well. I'll double check the measurements to make sure they use the same geometry, but I'm pretty sure it is.