well, all I can say is for $2 I had the "second" person... close the screw, pump the pedal, chock down the pedal w/ the broom handle , walk over to the bleeder screw, open/close - repeat. The car was done in 15-20 min's and the pedal is rock solid.

i generally don't have any help so I'll figure out another way to get it done, good and bad i guess

 

it will work, but seems to be more a sportive event that a car repair

 

lol, i must be explaining it wrong - other than having to walk from the drivers seat to the corner you're bleeding it was quick and easy. to each their own i guess , just wish i had tried it before wasting my money on the vacuum pump from sears

 

So If I want to replace the fluid completely,, do i just bleed the heck out of it?? Right now my fluid is really discolored and rusty looking,, but the brakes work great even after sitting for 3 years.. I just want to replace every drop of fluid in the thing. Is there a different method I should use or will I be able to just bleed it all out while adding new stuff? anyone done this before?

 

done it a million times before.
this is perfectly right: bleed the heck out of it. (and start with the longest distance brake). Most far away from MC. then the next shorter one

2 things that will make it easier:
a) get a syringe and suck a good bit of old liquid out of the MC and fill it up with good liquid (will save you a few minutes bleeding).
b) attach a transparent hose (must be breakfluidresistant) to the bleeding screw. This will give you a good indication when good fluid is coming. most hoses on bleeding bottles I've seen are black for some weird reason. (most just use the rubber brake lines. that's I think why that is)

In a properly equipped garage (shop) they'll just attach a breakfluid pump to the mc. Put pressure on the thing. Open the bleeder screw and just wait til good liquid without bubbles come. 5 minute job if you don't want to do it yourselves and they have such an equipment.

I'd recommend to change brake fluid every 2 years (most say 5) as brake fluid is very hygroscopic (attrackts/pulls water). the seeding temperature and overall quality of it is going down a lot with old liquid.

remember to fill MC to level when finished and checking throughout bleeding MC is not running empty

Kalli

 

I've read of one method in Mustang Monthly that they claim can be done with one person. It involves running a bleed line from the bleed screw into the bottom of a pickle jar that is filled with good brake fliud. That way, as you pump the brake pedal, you can hear the airbubbles that are being pushed into the pickle jar as they pop. It seems to me that this might work... But to be honest I'd rather just ask my girlfriend to help me. She's always had a heavy brake foot anyway.

Kalli, that totally makes sense to me to not pump that brake pedal because of air being sucked in. Thanks for the heads up!

 

you're welcome 65Sickster.

it might work but is still kind of dodgy. the hose attached will still be full of air bubbles. you push them down the hose, then it pulls it back again.
So you need to make sure that the hose is very short that in one brake pedal push everything in your hose is cleared out.

After a while the fluid in the canister will be mixing with old fluid. ad you suck that back in again. Doesn't matter for bleeding as still it's liquid.

I just prefer to do it properly. Especially when it comes to brakes. But yes it's a good and valid idea. I must give that.

Kalli

 

Did it a few months ago. Just like Kalli said I started at the rear passenger wheel and had my wife pump the brakes until I felt the MC would be low (about twelve pumps from mine), refilled the MC, repeat until the fluid looked nice and new. Once you get that first line flushed the others go much quicker as you will be flushing much shorter lines at that point. Don't buy the small pint bottle of fluid either. You'll need most of a quart (at least I did), so get a quart bottle. If you run into problems, you might even use more than a quart (once again, I did; I found a leaking wheel cylinder after I flushed the brake lines). When flushing the old stuff out itwill be visually obvious when the new stuff starts to flow (it sure was in mine).

 

Thanks guys,, I allways thought it was that easy but just wanted to be sure... I just replaced the rear cylinder on another car and bled it with no problem, but that wasnt replacing all the fluid..