That'll work for the more serious use, but it's not a particularly good solution for part throttle daily driving where there are many times that you only want a little more snap.

 

i say if you want a stock look and good heads ford racing cast iron sportsman heads, also flat tappet cams are not as big of a wear as everyone makes them out to be,i have built 20+ engines race and street and have yet to have a camshaft failure and all i use is solit lifter cams, its not the cam its how you prepare and assemble your valvetrain that makes or brakes how much wear you achieve, use a good motor oil i use 40 wt for under 400 hp engines and 50 wt for race and 400+ hp engines, valvesprings make a big difference as do good lifters, as for the hv pump i personally have never seen that happenon a sbf

 

+1

even if this may only happen in extreme high revving extended operation with a stock sized oil pan and no windage tray (worst case scenerio) why chance it? its exactly why i used a high pressure pump in my 302 instead

 

You can get 400hp without too much trouble. But, you'll need to be replacing the top end, and at least balancing the bottom. The stock crank and rods are pretty stout, butt you won't want to be hanging out at 7k rpm all day. I have the stock crank/rods in my 302 and it's estimated 375-400hp, and turns around 6500 rpm before shifting.

 

thats why in my post i said road racestyleoil pan and windage tray

 

point taken

my .02 yes the rods are strong, and the crank is too BUT the 5/16 rod bolts are the weakest link in the entire motor. replacing them with high quality ARP Waveloc 5/16 bolts is the best money you can spend on your motor. alot of places drill em out and use 3/8's bolts, but that just weakens the rods cause theres not too much meat left around the bolt holes after drilling them out.

i spin my stock crank/rods 302 up to 7k between shifts if im driving hard, and i have sustained rpms over 6000 for at least 5 minutes (omg it was a beautiful thing LOL)

 

[sm=icon_rofl.gif]you are nuts but i like it. what, pray tell, were you doing at 6000 for five minutes??? Could it be that it was difficult to see through the haze??

I think I need a new cam...mine runs out of puff at about 5500. I'd love it to spin to 7000 to make the most of the exhaust note

 

Those are important, but are usedsolve the somewhat different issues of controlling the oil once it gets back into the sump. If you're going to pump the oil up topat a faster rate, you need to do something to ensure that it can drain backdown more easily. Otherwise, the pump can actually cause the very problems that it is supposed to be preventing. The basic sump design itself has little effect on how fast it refills.

Removing casting flash and radiusing the entrances to the drainback holes in the block and in the heads are the sorts of things that need attention.

A HV pump does have at least one "saving grace", though. If you do happen to experience lobe/lifter surface failure the extra flow available will help sustain the pressure and help prevent more extensive damage from occurring (BTDT, actually). You can take this to mean that there is no need for a HV pump if you're running a roller cam.


Norm

 

Norm, thats how I understood the race pans to work as well, but i thoughtthe reason they have wings and hold extra oil is because all the baffling etc slows the rate of flow back into the pan.

 

Damn Norm, you really know your stuff. You are a welcome addition to our already knowledgable members.