how much power can i get out of a stock 302 without stroking it or spercharging it? reason i ask is because some1 wants to sell me a stock rebuilt 302 for $500 and i plan to use it as a daily driver but i do want some power!

 

A "stock" 302 is going to have "stock" power numbers. It's is not going to be much more powerful than it was from the factory from just a 0.030" overbore on the rebuild. If you want to hop it up, what is your budget?

 

well it all depends on what you want to spend i mean heads are gunna be a huge factor and so is a cam but i would go with a 289 its far more responsive and most parts are the same cept for the crank

 

if your going stock with a boost go with 69 351 windsor heads, .515 lift .285 duration cam those specs are similar to boss 302 grind, holman moody makes some great 289/302 manifolds, get a carb rebuild or go with a holley 4150 or autolite 4100 somewhere in the 550-600cfm range and i know this is alot overlooked but after that i would add a windage tray, road race style oil pan with high volume pump melling is a good brand, also a good mechanical fuel pump that flows 95-120 gph and is non regulated...

 

Without exceeding the rpm limits for a 302 with a 5.09 rod and maintaining long-term reliaibility using the right cam-head combo I'd say around 300-325 at no more than 5800 rpm.
Damn those short rods.

 

Rods are 5.15 for the 289 and 5.09 for the 302.

 

Yeah, but the original poster said "stock". Since when is changing heads, cams and intakes still stock? If he is talking about a normally aspirated block, but with large valve aluminum heads, lopey cam with a lot of lift, etc. then I need to go look up the definition of stock. [sm=outcold.gif] If those mods are stock, I'm getting 375 hp out of my "stock" 302.

 

What he also said was "stock rebuilt", which I think can betaken mostly as being his reason for not considering stroker kits or forced induction. So while it's apparent that he doesn't want to tear the thing completely apart and start over, he hasn't written offmuch else (a lotof which which is essentially bolt-on and driveway-do-able anyway).

When he answers Brandon's question concerning a buildup budget we'll find out what else is eliminated.

I do like most of easttenn's durability-oriented mods and mike's power targets for a reliable daily driver that will have a good bit of "sparkle", having built upa number of engines along similar lines.

Mostly, I wouldn't run a high volume oil pump without improving the drainback (a HV pump can pack too much oil up top and run the sump level low enough to suck air under certain circumstances). But drainback mods areoutside the realm of bolt-on.

And I would look toward a shortish hydraulic roller cam. It'll give a better compromise between power and idle and low-rpm characteristics (read: emissions testing, if that's applicable), and it won't be nearly as apt to suffer from the lower concentrations of extreme pressure additives that are associated with commonly available automotive oil.


Norm

 

yup some people consider adding gt40 heads stock cause they were stock heads later on same with roller cams so it really does depend i wasn't saying go buy some alum heads just you can use factory parts from different years and get good perf

 

150 shot of NX