Fastback conversion?
LOL...sorry, don't mean to come off all fired up like that. I think it's because I've been reading so many postings about it in a row. Well, it should be an interesting venture either way.Oh,as to the cost estimation,I should have stated that this is assuming the work isnot outsourced, but done yourself. Wish me luck![8D]
PS. I'm afraid I'm just too stubborn to be talked out of this so enjoy the ride!
PS. I'm afraid I'm just too stubborn to be talked out of this so enjoy the ride!
So how many guys want to do this???? Seems like a lot of work for a car that will not be worth as much as a restored coupe....Might be cheaper in the short term, if you do the work yourself, but not in the long run.
But hay, we'll still love to see the progress and results, still with you whatever you decide..
But hay, we'll still love to see the progress and results, still with you whatever you decide..
LCC, I've always admired how bad a** your fastback looks and would say that, based on the pics in your signature,it's not hard to see why a lot of guys want to do this!
I think it's the same desire that will make that Dynacorn body a hit. Part of it is just wanting a car that looks good, is fun to drive and turns heads, but doesn't necessarily have to pass muster as a numbers matching vehicle. The other part is the challenge and the availability of coupes as a base for doing this project.
I think it's the same desire that will make that Dynacorn body a hit. Part of it is just wanting a car that looks good, is fun to drive and turns heads, but doesn't necessarily have to pass muster as a numbers matching vehicle. The other part is the challenge and the availability of coupes as a base for doing this project.
ORIGINAL: tdlabru
LOL...sorry, don't mean to come off all fired up like that. I think it's because I've been reading so many postings about it in a row. Well, it should be an interesting venture either way.Oh,as to the cost estimation,I should have stated that this is assuming the work isnot outsourced, but done yourself. Wish me luck![8D]
PS. I'm afraid I'm just too stubborn to be talked out of this so enjoy the ride!
LOL...sorry, don't mean to come off all fired up like that. I think it's because I've been reading so many postings about it in a row. Well, it should be an interesting venture either way.Oh,as to the cost estimation,I should have stated that this is assuming the work isnot outsourced, but done yourself. Wish me luck![8D]
PS. I'm afraid I'm just too stubborn to be talked out of this so enjoy the ride!
Even if you're doing the work yourself, you'll be loosing money left and right becasue you could have been using your time and skills on projects that could have given you a better profit...then used that profit to buy a fastback. Anyway you look at it, the conversion will end up costing you far more than the price difference between a coupe and fast back.
Looks like you can't be talked out of it. But I guess that's fine, since you know from the start that it's 100% for fun, andno moreof aninvestment that buying magic beans. So good luck with it.
ORIGINAL: tdlabru
LOL...sorry, don't mean to come off all fired up like that. I think it's because I've been reading so many postings about it in a row. Well, it should be an interesting venture either way.Oh,as to the cost estimation,I should have stated that this is assuming the work isnot outsourced, but done yourself. Wish me luck![8D]
PS. I'm afraid I'm just too stubborn to be talked out of this so enjoy the ride!
LOL...sorry, don't mean to come off all fired up like that. I think it's because I've been reading so many postings about it in a row. Well, it should be an interesting venture either way.Oh,as to the cost estimation,I should have stated that this is assuming the work isnot outsourced, but done yourself. Wish me luck![8D]
PS. I'm afraid I'm just too stubborn to be talked out of this so enjoy the ride!
Have you completed somthing of this magnitude before? and are you (very) skilled at working with automotive sheet metal? This would be a huge job even for a very experienced bodyman. I would not recomend this for a "first major project".
I cannot wish you luck because luck will never get this job done, but I will wish you skill....
Skill you will need....
I hope you go thru with it and post your progress. I have been restoring really rusty mustangs and face the same issue in a sence. I spend a lot of time and money on sheet metal vs paying a bit more for a more solid car. As for converting one, I don't think it's anymore complicated than the job I just did on my 67. I had to replace everything from the firewall forward. I couldn't find a doner that was much better so it's all new. I say go for it and as for making a profit, anytime you restore a car for yourself thinking you can resell for a profit its tough.
Craig
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Craig
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Thanks JMD, it will take more skill than luck. Fortunately, I do have a fair amount of experience working with (welding) sheet metal. I appreciate both the support and the constructive "down-to-earth" views about cost effectiveness and potential complications. As Craig (Tarafied) pointed out though, "anytime you restore a car for yourself thinking you can resell for a profit its tough". I'm not in it for the profit, but for 1) the challenge and 2) to get a fastback that looks exactly how I want. I'm also not in a hurry and have saved up enough to for the financial aspect (even if I've way underestimated the cost). Besides that, since this car was already stolen, was given a state issued VIN and is half repro and half original parts...why not? I'll post pics of the progress.
Oh, and for you purists out there, I failed to mention that I also have a 100% original matching numbers '69 Grande that I'm only the third owner of with not a single spec of rust and < 100k original miles. That one will not be touched except to replace worn interior parts (wood grain applique is old) with factory style ones. Finding that was definitely luck!
Oh, and for you purists out there, I failed to mention that I also have a 100% original matching numbers '69 Grande that I'm only the third owner of with not a single spec of rust and < 100k original miles. That one will not be touched except to replace worn interior parts (wood grain applique is old) with factory style ones. Finding that was definitely luck!
heres a guy that made a coupe in to a fastback http://web.infoave.net/~ronniek/11.html it can be done but im lazy and cheap good luck to anyone thats doing it hope you can trust your life on your welds.
I suggest that you get any floor/sill/torque box/tunnel/etc. repairs and/or reinforcement done before you even look at the roof. And consider adding temporary bracing before you cut the original roof, as the car will sag differently under its own weight without it. Better to start from a sound floorpan and avoid as much deflection as possible than to have to try to fix it later.
Consider adding the convertible inner rockers as well, even if you need to modify them slightly to fit them up to the existing metal.
From a different discussion, but which relates to the trusting of sheet metal welds in a fastback roofline,
Norm
Consider adding the convertible inner rockers as well, even if you need to modify them slightly to fit them up to the existing metal.
From a different discussion, but which relates to the trusting of sheet metal welds in a fastback roofline,
I'm not sure what you are worrying about.
What could have happened is this.
Car got hit in rear quarter. Body shop sources a new quarter from Ford.
Ok, now go back and look how Ford connects the quarter at the lower part of my fastback. Where the two panels joins Ford puts in a Z. They then spot weld the Z in the cavity and fill the whole thing with lead. A lot of lead.
The body shop sees all of this lead and the way Ford puts it together and decides to splice in a bit lower. Why? Because cleaning off all of that lead is a pain in the *** and you have to get it all off in order to do a proper weld. They use a cutting wheel and slice off the old panel. A new panel is then butt welded to the surrounding metal and they grind it down.
So which is stronger?
6-8 spot welds or a nicely welded butt joint?
If the area has no cracks, then nothing is moving.
As long as the repair is well done and the welds look proper to you, don't think another thing of it.
What could have happened is this.
Car got hit in rear quarter. Body shop sources a new quarter from Ford.
Ok, now go back and look how Ford connects the quarter at the lower part of my fastback. Where the two panels joins Ford puts in a Z. They then spot weld the Z in the cavity and fill the whole thing with lead. A lot of lead.
The body shop sees all of this lead and the way Ford puts it together and decides to splice in a bit lower. Why? Because cleaning off all of that lead is a pain in the *** and you have to get it all off in order to do a proper weld. They use a cutting wheel and slice off the old panel. A new panel is then butt welded to the surrounding metal and they grind it down.
So which is stronger?
6-8 spot welds or a nicely welded butt joint?
If the area has no cracks, then nothing is moving.
As long as the repair is well done and the welds look proper to you, don't think another thing of it.
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