Manifold vacuum connections will depend on year and options of your car. If you have power brakes it will be plugged in to manifold vacuum. If you have a factory air conditioner there may be a temperature sensor on the top of your thermostat housing that will have both manifold and timed vacuum plugged into it (if you do have that, that is where the vacuum line from your distributor should be connected). If you have an automatic transmission, there should be a manifold vacuum line running to it. Also, I have a manifold vacuum line running to a canister between the engine compartment and the passenger side front fender. I'm not actually sure what that is for.

 

Do I plug allvacuum lines into the carb, manifold (including brakebooster and auto trans lines and the single vacuum advance on the distrubutor when doing strobe timing? Or do I leave the brake booster and auto trans lines connected? I don't have AC.

 

As long as you just disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line, you should be ok. The others can remain connected. Have you had a chance to follow that line to see where it is connected on the other end?

 

Hi !

for timing you hook up everything. But you disconnect the line for the vacuum advance at the distributor side and block it.
This line comes from the carb. If you tell us which carb you have (pics?) then we can tell you where it goes.
From the carb there is _usually_ nothing connecting to intake manifold. that's valid for a 1965 model with autolite2100. But I don't know what you have there

Set your timing as stated above. disconnect at distributor side and block the hose.
If you have your timing right, connect the hose again to the advance. If your timing advances a klot, then you have already too much vacuum coming from the carb at this stage or it's hooked up at wrong port. if it's hooked up correctly, you might be able to decrease it with loosening the throttle adjuster screw (remember though were you have been). This will as well bring your idle down. It's the screw that is attaged to the linkage. If you loosen it, the throttle plate will close further. Tighten it will open the throttle plate further.

As well make sure you have no wrong air pulled into carb. For that put airfilter on and spray brake cleaner or WD40 around the carb. the idle should not change.

Kalli

 

Thanks Guys. I have a Motorcraft 2100. I work untill 4 so I will check it out and try eveything when I get home around 4:20. Like an idiot, I plugged the hole for the vacuum advance on the distributor but left the hose open... [sm=bangbang.gif]Do I want to plug them both or leave the single vacuum advance open?

 

The connection on the actual distributor can stay open, there isn't really anything going on there without the hose connected anyway. The hose running to the carb should be plugged though. A golf tee works perfect, or a pencil tip may work also.

 

I'll give it a try in a couple hours. That might explain allot about last night with my bass ackwads timing I was doing. Now I just have to get the thing running again.It wasn't starting after I turned it off and touched the distributor. (cause like i said b4, i'm an idiot) Thanks again.

 

here is a pic of my carb with the vaccum to carb line for reference hope it helps

 

You're not an idiot, you just haven't learned yet! That's what we are all here for. Once you learn how to do this stuff you'll be able to talk other people through it. Hopefully that picture that paddy posted will help (thanks paddy).

 

yah +1 on not idiot. I learned car mechanic for four years and i still don't get it. So who's the idiot now ?