New promblem
well went home at lunch, after setting set screws last night, and fired her up. She turned right over. Warmed up, and seemed okey at idle. Then it began, after t was warmed way up, started the backfireing again on the right side only. Messed with the choke pot,didn't change much, actually at one point the the excellerator got stuck. I did check the fireing order, and it is dead on. Why the backfires only on one side, and more so when i put it in gear?
Once the engine is warmed up, the choke should be fully opened so adjusting it then probably won't do you any good. It is best to adjust the choke (by moving the black choke pot) when the engine is cold and making sure it is fully closed.
When you say "setting set screws", what do you mean? 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from bottom on the air/fuel mixture screws? That is a good starting point for further tuning. If you are able to put a vacuum gauge on the carb you will be able to fine tune it from there based on highest value of inches of vacuum. Right now, you still may be running rich. It is common for a car to "after fire" through the exhaust (a "backfire" is through the carb) if the air/fuel mixture is off.
When your accelerator got stuck, were you able to see what caused it? For safety's sake, get that thing fixed before you actually take the car out for a drive. That could be really scary!
Good luck!
When you say "setting set screws", what do you mean? 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from bottom on the air/fuel mixture screws? That is a good starting point for further tuning. If you are able to put a vacuum gauge on the carb you will be able to fine tune it from there based on highest value of inches of vacuum. Right now, you still may be running rich. It is common for a car to "after fire" through the exhaust (a "backfire" is through the carb) if the air/fuel mixture is off.
When your accelerator got stuck, were you able to see what caused it? For safety's sake, get that thing fixed before you actually take the car out for a drive. That could be really scary!
Good luck!
so when the car is off, the butterfly should be closed completely? The screws are the air/fuel screws, i did the 1 and a half turns to start out, And it seemed fine, until i put it in gear. I think i have more promblems then i think, i am new at carbs and confussed over all the differant settings. Just hard to get it perfect, and i think the afterfire is another promblem. when i say afterfire, i mean it really does it. What causes that?
Try to get your afterfire fixed first. If your timing is off it doesnt matter how much you mess with the fuel/ air mixeture, you car will still not run right. Let the car cool down then loosen the distributor bolt just enough so that you can start it. Start the car and turn the distributor slightly one way. If it runs worse try turing the other way. If this fixes your backfire problem then move on to fixing the air fuel mixture. I think you timing is off and your pumping WAY to much fuel into the cylendars to make up for the bad timing. That would explain the flooding and the wet spark plugs.
ORIGINAL: dr1965
so when the car is off, the butterfly should be closed completely? The screws are the air/fuel screws, i did the 1 and a half turns to start out, And it seemed fine, until i put it in gear. I think i have more promblems then i think, i am new at carbs and confussed over all the differant settings. Just hard to get it perfect, and i think the afterfire is another promblem.
so when the car is off, the butterfly should be closed completely? The screws are the air/fuel screws, i did the 1 and a half turns to start out, And it seemed fine, until i put it in gear. I think i have more promblems then i think, i am new at carbs and confussed over all the differant settings. Just hard to get it perfect, and i think the afterfire is another promblem.
Like I mentioned before, the 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from bottom is just a starting point for your air/fuel mixture. In order to actually get the correct settings the most popular way is to use a vacuum gauge. You could also use an air/fuel gauge or use your hand and ear, but I'd say the best way for the average back yard mechanic is the vacuum gauge. If you don't have one, they are pretty cheap ($20.00 +/-) and you can find them at just about any auto parts store.
I'm not sure what type of carburator you have, but here is a link to an article about tuning an Edelbrock. Even if you don't have an Edelbrock, reading the article may help you understand what you are adjusting. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ockCarburetor/
The choke closed when the engine is cold is not correct for a stock carb. The choke wants to close because of the bimatallic spring un-coiling. That's why on the starting instructions it says to depress the accelerator pedal and that action closes the choke.
Jim
Jim
eholzer07-that is exactly what i was looking for. I think u are %100 right.i will try that tonight. I would like to get that taken care of first, and that is the thing that started it all, everything else is my doing, such as the air/fuel mixture.


