Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

priming questions

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Old May 5, 2007 | 06:59 PM
  #11  
Shifty101Easy's Avatar
Shifty101Easy
5th Gear Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,707
From: San Francisco
Default RE: priming questions

ORIGINAL: atomsk680

ORIGINAL: shr

dont get priming confused with sealing a panel, primer is a sprayable filler (kinda) sealer is the final topcoat that is not suposed to be sanded down before painting, a sealer eliminates sanding scratches (some) and d.a. marks. only prime if you have to do work but dont prime the whole panel if it is not needed
well most my car is bare metal, but its in my garage so no water can get to it. so wont i have to prime the bare metal nonetheless?

also i am confused, so do i, or do i not need to prime the enw body panels that were already black?
yes...just scuff them and then prime them...dont take off the black coating....just need to scuff it up....

and its prob a good idea to prime bare metal but im like you and my car has bare metal exposed right now and its like....ive been watching closely and there is zero corrosion....im still going to go over it with something before i do anything since its been sitting a while but its just so dry and warm here in california that maybe im not experiencing what other people have happen to them in differnt parts of the country...
Old May 5, 2007 | 08:02 PM
  #12  
rmodel65's Avatar
rmodel65
Yukon Cornelius
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,812
From: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Default RE: priming questions

it will flash rust just from the moisture in the air


personally id do like SHR said scuff the new fenders with a red scotchbrite pad this will provide a good tooth for the primer to bite into since the paint is a chemical bond only slightly its more a physical bond like body filler. but id use a expoy primer for any first coat you doing it will basically be water proof compared to a urethane primer(which will absorb water and so will exposed body filler) but you can do light body work over the epoxy primer by scuffing it with come 80 grit. then repriming after your finished


sealers do help hide minor imperfection but you should not rely on it to remove any scratches its nore to help with bleed thru and allow the paint to cover more quickly although it does help to eliminate sand scratch swelling of the new paint.
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