Yup, it's there. It provides 12V to the coil for starting, then drops to around 8V for running. Electric chokes require 12V for a couple of minutes to heat up the bi-metallic strip that opens up the choke and then it requires a constant 12V to keep the choke open.
Jim

 

Set yours up anyway you wish. Mine works just fine. If you really want to have a switchable power source for aftermarket things like electric chokes and powerful add-ons then create a new fuse box that is tied into the positive side of the solenoid and plug your BS aftermarket add-ons into that fuse box.

 

A better source is the brown wire going to the heater blower in the engine compartment. It's switched 12V. Don't use the yellow wire though.
Jim

 

Yeah, that yeller wire is constant 12V positive. A long story made short. I tied intothe yeller wire with the starter switch and the car was in reverse and my foot was under the rear of the front tire. Have you ever had you toes run over?

 

So its the positive red wire that goes to the "I" Post, the negative black one goes to the mass then.
Right ?

 

No. That terminal does not provide enough voltage to keep the choke open. Use the brown heater fan wire.
Jim

 

That would mean cutting wires and i just checked, there is no brown one, only a yellow and a black one
I was just looking at it. How about hooking it up to the positive wire of the coil ? Isnt that also a valid constant 12V power source ?

 

The voltage to your coil is around 8 volts. There is a resistance wire from the ignition switch to the connector at the firewall that reduces the 12 volts to 8 volts for normal running. On the other side of that connector, in the engine compartment, there are two wires, one to the coil and one to the solenoid, the 'I' terminal. When the car is started, 12 volts is sent to the coil for an extra 'jolt' - more voltage. When you connect to that point at the solenoid, you get reduced voltage because the circut is only active when starting. In any case, putting an extra load on the resistance wire could cause it to open, that's burn up.
There are two wires that go to the heater fan in the engine compartment. Each wire has a 0.187 inch dia male/female bullet connector. By making and inserting a short jumper wire hookedup to brown (dirty brown iscalled black) wire- do not use the other wire, yellow - about two inches long,with a male bullet connector at one end and a female bullet at the other, and a longer wire from either of the those two bullet connectors (your choice)to the choke, is the recomended solution. No cutting of existing wiring, no splices, no gigantic wad of tape, an easy installation.
Jim

 

In other words, no do not hook it to the + side of the coil. That ain't 12 volts, and don't hook it to the "I" on the solenoid. That is only 10.7 or so. Take out your gauge pod and locate the switchable wire on the ignition switch. If I remember correctly, it is black with a blue stripe.
Now, if you followed my advice on how to hook up your pertronix electronic ignition and ran 12 volts to the coil and went around the pink risistor wire, then you can use the + side of the coil for your choke wire to hook up.

 

Glen,
Available switched 12 V in the engine compartment can't get any easier than the heater lead, it's about an 18 inch run.
Jim