70 coupe floor pan
Hello, I am new her and have a 70 coupe with a rusted out driver's floor pan. i have the replacement pan but I have never done this before If any one has any tips or suggestions I would appreciate it.
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if you havent welded before get to practice. computer towers have about the right guage for the metal you'll be working with, i think so use those. just dont trim off to muchand dont try to hurry the job. its a good panel to learn on if you suck or something because when its all said and done, if the welds are ugly but good it doesnt matter because there's a carpet on it after you finish por-15 the whole pan and undercarriage because its a rust preventative
almost forgot, hello and welcome to the forum
almost forgot, hello and welcome to the forum
i am actually doing that same exact fix right now. i had all 6, yes six, floor pans rusted out. i bought the rh and lh side longpan to fix the driver and passenger side front pans and rear. i also got the rear extensionthat goes under the rear seat.
i advise you to get the new pan and set it in and mark it, then cut out less than you marked so you can overlap weld it instead of butt joint it. i have already burned many holes in the couple sections i had to butt joint. i also got the seat risers since there was no way to salvage the old ones. i got six pans from MustangsPlus which cost me a total of about $325. not bad. theyre american made too, so they fit better than the imported ones. be sure to clean the surface of paint and seam sealer really well. i dont know how much access you have to tools, but a die grinder with a paint remover wheel work EXCELLENT for that. take your time too, its not gonna fit perfectly right away. if its being stubborn, give it some whacks with a hammer and dolly until it fits so you can tack it on. after you weld a nice bead all the way around, finish with a little grinding and a coat of seam sealer. then spray it all with some black paint.
i advise you to get the new pan and set it in and mark it, then cut out less than you marked so you can overlap weld it instead of butt joint it. i have already burned many holes in the couple sections i had to butt joint. i also got the seat risers since there was no way to salvage the old ones. i got six pans from MustangsPlus which cost me a total of about $325. not bad. theyre american made too, so they fit better than the imported ones. be sure to clean the surface of paint and seam sealer really well. i dont know how much access you have to tools, but a die grinder with a paint remover wheel work EXCELLENT for that. take your time too, its not gonna fit perfectly right away. if its being stubborn, give it some whacks with a hammer and dolly until it fits so you can tack it on. after you weld a nice bead all the way around, finish with a little grinding and a coat of seam sealer. then spray it all with some black paint.
Thanks for the advice and the great forum. I have all the tools I think I will need and have done a restoration on a 53 F100 but the body was in pretty good shape and there wasn't much rust repair to do. I was wondering about how much I should cut out and I think you guys answered that for me. The welding will be no problem.
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