Mobil 1
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1st Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 73
From:
Mobil 1
Has anyone had a problem with Mobil 1 leaking from the front of the oil pan? I'm currently replacing the pan gasket with a Perma dry plus by fel-pro. should I stay with Mobil 1 or go back to a regular oil like Castrol?
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,089
From:
RE: Mobil 1
Oil leaks are the fault of the gasket/installer, not the oil. Sorry.
I always use a silicone sealant/adhesive for all oil gaskets (except the valve cover to head junction) for added security. None of my engines leak...at all.
I always use a silicone sealant/adhesive for all oil gaskets (except the valve cover to head junction) for added security. None of my engines leak...at all.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: Mobil 1
You didn't say how many miles were on the engine. If the only oil that it ever saw was Castrol the gaskets should not have hardened and shrunk. That is the biggest problem with going to a synthetic oil after years of dino. The gaskets harden, shrink but are sealed by the deposits from the dino (NOT CASTROL) and then when you start using Mobil-1 the deposits are cleaned off and the oil finds it way out. Otherwise I'll agree with the post about the gasket being bad.
American Iron motorcycle magazine did a series of articles back in 2000 ane even got the Mobil engineer who led the project to write most of the article. The points I remember were that moly-dendum is especially bad for your seals/gaskets and unless you are seeing very extreme temp. changes such as -0 or 110+ you don't need to spend the extra money.
Soaring may now quote ALL the numbers he wants....the 1st amendment is still here....but when there are numerous engines using Castrol GT/X that have more than 500,000 documented miles and no ring, bearing, valve, or timing chain failures I have to believe GT/X is plenty good enough.
My 1977 XLCH has seen nothing but GT/X since I had to do a top-end at 18,000 due to an exhaust valve sticking...cause by oil deposits from using 60 w H-D oil of the era. Warner Riley of Lakeshore H-D told me that year to start using GT/X 20-50 and I would never stick another valve and he was correct. Not only that but when I did another top end at 96,000 the reason was from contaminates that a K&N air filter allowed in...not from the oil and this is a cast-iron Sporty that runs an oil temp of 250-275.
But you can do what you want...it is afterall, your money.
American Iron motorcycle magazine did a series of articles back in 2000 ane even got the Mobil engineer who led the project to write most of the article. The points I remember were that moly-dendum is especially bad for your seals/gaskets and unless you are seeing very extreme temp. changes such as -0 or 110+ you don't need to spend the extra money.
Soaring may now quote ALL the numbers he wants....the 1st amendment is still here....but when there are numerous engines using Castrol GT/X that have more than 500,000 documented miles and no ring, bearing, valve, or timing chain failures I have to believe GT/X is plenty good enough.
My 1977 XLCH has seen nothing but GT/X since I had to do a top-end at 18,000 due to an exhaust valve sticking...cause by oil deposits from using 60 w H-D oil of the era. Warner Riley of Lakeshore H-D told me that year to start using GT/X 20-50 and I would never stick another valve and he was correct. Not only that but when I did another top end at 96,000 the reason was from contaminates that a K&N air filter allowed in...not from the oil and this is a cast-iron Sporty that runs an oil temp of 250-275.
But you can do what you want...it is afterall, your money.
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