COWL VENT LEAKS
I like the way JMD is thinking about the problem.
Too often we do not think of "other ways to skin a cat"/make repairs - relying on orthodox patterns of thought - i..e. thinking inside the box (I know - it is a tired cliche).
Is there:
a. an easy way to neutralize or slow down the rust spread until we are in a position to repair it?
b. an alternative to drilling out the 100s of spot welds and fitting/welding on a new piece?
Great point JMD!
Too often we do not think of "other ways to skin a cat"/make repairs - relying on orthodox patterns of thought - i..e. thinking inside the box (I know - it is a tired cliche).
Is there:
a. an easy way to neutralize or slow down the rust spread until we are in a position to repair it?
b. an alternative to drilling out the 100s of spot welds and fitting/welding on a new piece?
Great point JMD!
Although I haven't done it myself, a local friend has done it more than once.
He says you have to remove the front fenders to access the area and do the job right. Aftermarketers make these things that look like little plastic top hats. I have one hanging on the wall of my garage.
He says you have to remove the front fenders to access the area and do the job right. Aftermarketers make these things that look like little plastic top hats. I have one hanging on the wall of my garage.
ORIGINAL: JMD
Is that a "Mustang Sin",,,
I don't think so. To me it makes perfect sense to do majorrepairs like this on a scedule set by the owner....
If the water can be kept off of the floorboards by using a cover nothing is going to be lost by waiting it out...
I have thought about this repair even though I don't think I will need to do it, and I have considererd that it might be easier to cut the top of the cowl area out (a big area around the top vent),repairing the vent from the top, and then welding the top piece back in...
Not the "correct" way to do it, but I think it might work and be easier than drilling out all of those welds....
Anyone have any thoughts on this??

ORIGINAL: fiegland
I put the covers on to keep the floor boards dry. They are newly replaced. I am just letting the cowl area rust away for now because I am going to replace the whole thing someday soon
Larry
I put the covers on to keep the floor boards dry. They are newly replaced. I am just letting the cowl area rust away for now because I am going to replace the whole thing someday soon
Larry
I don't think so. To me it makes perfect sense to do majorrepairs like this on a scedule set by the owner....If the water can be kept off of the floorboards by using a cover nothing is going to be lost by waiting it out...
I have thought about this repair even though I don't think I will need to do it, and I have considererd that it might be easier to cut the top of the cowl area out (a big area around the top vent),repairing the vent from the top, and then welding the top piece back in...
Not the "correct" way to do it, but I think it might work and be easier than drilling out all of those welds....
Anyone have any thoughts on this??


If you go that route make sure the damage isn't this severe or you'll be making a second cut!

[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/5EEA8280F65149C29E0FD74882E77E4D.jpg[/IMG]
ORIGINAL: Grimm
And this is what it looked like under the seam sealer!
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/5CB643C79DA94D47B70A809E70FB63CC.jpg[/IMG]
And this is what it looked like under the seam sealer!
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/5CB643C79DA94D47B70A809E70FB63CC.jpg[/IMG]


I could see that if the rust is that bad my idea ain't gonna work....
ORIGINAL: LPlum
Seabull,
All the mustang parts suppliers sell a cowl vent repair kit. I beleive these are installed from inside up under the dash. The kit has two plastic caps that are inserted and glued up into the sheet metal cowl holes. These may work if the rusts not to bad. I'm considering giving them a try myself. I hope anyone that has tried them will post a reply.
Lowell
Seabull,
All the mustang parts suppliers sell a cowl vent repair kit. I beleive these are installed from inside up under the dash. The kit has two plastic caps that are inserted and glued up into the sheet metal cowl holes. These may work if the rusts not to bad. I'm considering giving them a try myself. I hope anyone that has tried them will post a reply.
Lowell
I did do this about 12 years ago on my '66, and had limited success. I found it very dificult to grind and wire brush away the rusty metal and paint because I coudn't see a damn thing under there! However it did change it from dripping down my legs during an average rainfall to sometimes finding a small puddle on the floor mat after a downpour.
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bradleyb
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