it's sounding like all blasting methods will have material falling out later. If I remove every panel though, that should help with the build up of blasting material shouldn't it?

 

Take everything off except the suspension, steering and e-brake. That way the blaster can load it on a trailer and deliver it back. You can put most of the parts that you remove (hood, trunk, valences, etc) inside the car for transport to the blaster. IMO find a blaster that does both sand and media blasting. Use sand for underneath because it is better at removing undercoating, seam sealer and heavy rust. Then use plastic media for the rest which is great at removing paints and filler. I also suggest getting it primed right after so you can take your time on the bodywork before surface rust comes back.

Good luck!

 

Where you at in OK?

 

Cool. thanks for the info. I'm in Norman, OK. I still havent found a blaster close. There is one opening up close, but it's going to be a couple months.

 

Do a google for sand blasters inthe largest city close to you. Do media and sand blaster search and you should be able to get one. The average cost for media and epoxy primer alone will be around $500 for material cost. Anything over that is the actual labor cost. For sure do both at the same time if you can and use pressurised air as often as possible after the blast and before the primer. Spray some kind of rust preventative into any crack you do not think paint will go after you have removed as much of the sand or media as you can. No, soda blasting does not leave material that has to be shaken out and it does protect the metal so that you have more time to work with it prior to primer but I still prefer dry suger sand over the others. I blast my autos in a 10x20 shed I bought from the internet (arrow) and I do the primer there as well. I do not do the final painting although I do as much as the body prep as I can before I take it to a local painter to finish the work. Saves me thousands in a paint job. I also bought my sandblaster and equipment from harbor freight.

 

Here is a representative list of media options:

Silicon Carbide is the hardest blasting media available. Silicon carbide has a very
fast cutting speed and can be recycled and re-used many more times than most
media other than steel shot. The hardness of silicon carbide delivers a much
shorter blast time compared to other blast media. However, Silicone Carbide is not
recommended due to the danger of Silicosis disease.

Aluminum Oxide can be re-used many times for grit blasting. It is a sharp, longlasting
abrasive sandblasting cutting media which is harder than most common dry
abrasive blast media. It will cut even the hardest metals and surfaces. It is available
in a variety of grit sizes. Aluminum Oxide has limited re-use life because the
individual grains can shatter during blasting.

Steel Grit contains angular carbon steel which is effective for fast removal of paint,
rust and scale from metals. Steel Grit is softer than Aluminum Oxide and is less
likely to fracture during blasting. It leaves an etched surface which is excellent for
adhesion of paints and coatings.

Crushed Glass Grit is a silica-free consumable abrasive. It normally cannot be
used more than once because it powders during blasting. Crushed Glass Grit
produces a whiter, cleaner finish than mineral or steel abrasives.

Bead Blasting produces a distinctive pebbled surface on metals. Bead blasted
finishes are softer and brighter than finishes produced by sharp edged abrasives.

Glass beads and steel shot are frequently used bead blasting media.
Glass Beads are silica-free and can be used for shot blasting, peening, honing,
cleaning and light deburring. Glass Beads can usually be recycled up to 30 times.

Steel Shot can be used repeatedly and produce very little media dust during the
blasting process. Steel shot will produce a clean, smooth and polished finish. Steel
shot blasting will also work-harden metals, creating a harder surface layer.

Plastic Abrasives are ideal for sheet metal applications such as auto restoration.
They can strip paint quickly without damaging or warping the substrate.

Walnut Shells are an organic media which has an angular shape. They are
effective for paint stripping of sheet metal and plastic, and are also useful for
polishing harder metals such as steel alloys and titanium.

Corn Cob is an even softer biodegradable media which will not etch or warp the
surface being blasted. It is ideal for wood and thin metals and plastics. Corn cob is
also a useful polishing media.

Pumice is the softest of all the blasting media yet still offers excellent stripping
properties. Excellent for blasting surfaces such as soft wood to remove paint and
coatings with no impact on the substrate. Pumice is available in various grits and
can be used for polishing.

 

I've got a guy at work who has a shop - he's asking $1,200 to media blast and prime with self etching on my 66 FB - I may try to get him to come down a little bit

 

FWIW, I paid $550 for the blasting (exterior only and underside of hood and trunk deck) and $350 for epoxy priming (materials included) for my '65 fastback in Los Angeles.

 

Thanks Gothang - that gives a better idea ... I have asked him to also do the undercarriage and the engine bay - but like you I will only do the exterior, not the interior - so I guess I will try to talk him into doing it around $900

 

I blast for a living. If you are cleaning sheetmetal, it would be best to use soda or shell. Sand is a definite no no as it will impregnate the metal with silica potentially causing more issue than not doing anything. If I was going to do it, I would go ahead and do it all. It will make you sleep better at night.