ITs still at the shop until this afternoon,, I will check it out then though.. The block is definately a 1970 351w though,, I plugged the numbers not long ago.

 

I would find a new machine shop....

did they clay the piston tops and assemble the long block to check piston to valve clearance?

 

Clay is your friend, saves you from buying a new valvetrain. Also have them make sure you're going to have enoguh quench height, you don't want a piston slapping the cylinder head

 

piston manufacturers have charts that take into account bore-stroke-rod length so these things dont happen. anyways I would have him go thru and check valve to piston clearance before investing in a new set, sounds like you didnt choose the brightest tool in the shed to build your engine. He should have done a dry mock up and checked clearences, torn the assembly down and then lube it up and final assemble it...

 

The 69-72 351W had a 9.480 deck height and 73 on up has a deck height of 9.503.

Depending on the piston you can cut material off the thing and not have an issue other than balance. We used to chuck domed pistons for 460 Fords up in the lathe and cut them down to flat tops when I was into that sort of thing and never had an issue. Those were forged pistons though. The big thing to look out for is thickness of the valve pocket and piston top. You should call your piston manufacturer and talk to thier tech people if you are not sure of what you are doing or if it will fail down the road.

As for what the other guys say about finding an new engine builder.....I wouldn't go back to the one you are dealing with now. The basics are, and always have been, measure everything twice before ordering anything.