On the 67-68 Mustang the straight MC bar is very close to the Distributor, so using the curved MC bar will allow you to remove the distriburor cap with the bar installed. Also make sure the one that you purchase has a "notch" on the left side. See pics. Otherwise you will have to cut it out to make it fit. [:@]. fd

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the picture is too close for me to tell where the notch is in the engine bay, and since i dont have my car with me until i get back from college i cant go look for myself, where is the notch on the engine bay?

 

The notch is in the plate on the side of the bar, not the engine bay. The fender has a small raised portion that the notch goes around.

As far as the curved bar being weaker...I don't think there's any noticable difference. These bars are pretty sturdy. The curved bar is designed to clear a long air cleaner or a tall MSD cap. I've got a curved bar and it works great, fit perfectly.

 

I noticed a big difference once I installed the bar, curves could be taken faster and hugged a bit more, stiffen her up. I haven't added the export yet but like others have said it is well worth it.

And it gives you a chance to add some shinny stuff....

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both a export brace and monte carlo bar are well worth every penny yes the straight one is better but a pain if you gotta work on the car.

 

BTW When installing the Monte Carlo Bar, using bolts with regular hex heads, on the upper fender apron. The extra thickness of the MC bar mount can raise the bolt head too high, andcan sometimes dent the hoods side rail. A neat way of getting around this , is to use carriage bolts, like the ones used on the bumpers, with the chromed heads. No dents in the hood, and a little "bling".

 

the difference in the strength of a curved bar v. straight at the stress used in a daily driver is in MHO non-existent. I agree a straight bar is stronger. However, you are not putting your car through enough stress to make the bars flex. Maybe if you wear road racing a high performance car I would go with the straight bar, but anything less, I would recomend the curved bar for ease of access to the distributor and you may also have clearance issues with a srtraight bar and certain air cleaners. Anyway, in conjunction with a quality export brace, the curved bar is more than sufficient for what it is intended to do.

No, a word of caution. The bar and brace can be had cheap. But remember you get what you pay for. The cheap taiwan made stuff is thinner guage metal, does not have deep draws like th original export brace and may not be made to spec, which can creat installation problems. Also forget the chrome ones, they rust in no time.

You can get a MADE in USA Ford tooling export brace for 59. at NPD. Well worth the extra money. Heavy guage steel, deep draws and dropped right in. Taiwan ones are like 39. For an extra 20. its a no brainer. Also, Scott Drake makes a very nice quality monte carlo bar that is only about 10. more than the foreign stiff. Also, I would install before having your car aligned. If the shock towers have to be flexed at all during the installation, it will effect your alignment.

Good luck. You will be happy with the upgrade.

 

By the way, as mentioned above, carriage bolts are the way to go on top of the monte. The SD monte bar has the square provisions for the carriage bolts on the flange.

 

My monte carlo bar didnt have the curve on the mounting plates, so I just cut the bottom half off of it and it fits fine. 2 top bolts and 1 side bolt on each side, so its integrity is fine still...

I was worried about the bolt heads hitting the hood, I might have to go swap them out..

And I got a taiwan export brace and it seems just fine in regards to thickness and rigidness. I think any more would be over-kill....

 

I just ordered this set up from TCP. Of course, there is little chance it is going to fit around my GT40 intake and Vortech blower, but at least it will be a good starting design to alter into a shape that will fit. I will have the trick fittings, andprobably have to extend, bend, weld into the perfect shape. It will be better than nothing as I can feel the flex when cornering. Final touch will be to anodize (clear plate)the finished product to mimic the TCP factory finish.

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