A Different 347 (Theory)
one of the combo they have where I work is the dart block bored .165 over with the 347 crank and rods. Also know as the 370. It puts out over 600hp on pump gas. And if you want to reaaly shell out some money you can get it with aluim. block.
Big bores have a lot of advantages as well. It helps to unshroud valves and get better cylinder filling, you can increase displacement to burn more fuel without increasing stroke, so you can make more power without stressing the block as much, plus when you start talking about .125-.185 over setups, there's enough of an increase in piston surface area to have a pretty large impact on power production. The same cylinder pressure with a larger piston surface area will make more power, without having the nasty side effectsthat high cylinder pressure with smaller bores can on head gaskets etc, reducing the need to go to extra lengths to seal the heads on more wild applications(o-ringing etc). I think my next build will be like a 375W, stock length stroke with a 4.125 bore
This particular block is manufactured with a 4.125 bore in mind, (it is sold with a 4.115 bore, the .010 left is for honing and fitting pistons) it costs about 2,400.00. Quite pricey!!
I would have a hard time spending that kind of $$, but it is cool.
While just playing around, I have tried to find the parts to make a short block. I think it could be done with a Ford stroker (3.250) crank and 5.155 rods, but the only off the shelf pistons I have found that might work are Chevy SB 400 pistons, they will work with a little trim job, (.010 off the top for zero deck) ifthe valve reliefs are in the right spot..(KB 705000 w\1.430 pin placement)
To use the 5.4" rod a piston would be needed with a .95compression height, I did not see one.
I would have a hard time spending that kind of $$, but it is cool.
While just playing around, I have tried to find the parts to make a short block. I think it could be done with a Ford stroker (3.250) crank and 5.155 rods, but the only off the shelf pistons I have found that might work are Chevy SB 400 pistons, they will work with a little trim job, (.010 off the top for zero deck) ifthe valve reliefs are in the right spot..(KB 705000 w\1.430 pin placement)
To use the 5.4" rod a piston would be needed with a .95compression height, I did not see one.
Most of the aftermarket blocks range in price from $1,700-2,500 and you get what you pay for. The higher the price the aftermarket block, the better it is, thicker webs, thicker cylinder walls, priority main oiling, some have extra bolt holes for cylinder heads for if you run a head with more than stock # of bolts. They do what a stock block never can
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302
I think my next build will be like a 375W, stock length stroke with a 4.125 bore
I think my next build will be like a 375W, stock length stroke with a 4.125 bore
ORIGINAL: JMD
I bet it would be a beast, and a beast that would not be afraid to run at 7,000 RPM....
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302
I think my next build will be like a 375W, stock length stroke with a 4.125 bore
I think my next build will be like a 375W, stock length stroke with a 4.125 bore
375W, 4.125 bore 3.5 stroke, a short piston, like a 1" CH and run custom length rods, so it'd be a long rod setup and very efficient. All ultra light weight internals, CHI 3V 185's with their intake, a custom hyd roller or possibly a solid roller cam, and all the other goodies that go with an engine like that. Maybe spend the money on a pro systems carb. Should be able to put out close to, if not over 600hp at the crank on pump gas. And yeah, it won't give a crap about rpm. It'd make for a beastly daily driver. Then slap a 2 stage 250shot setup on it, but in order to get away with that on the track with street tires, it'd most likely need to run very wide street tires with a 4-link. Or go more mellow with like a 150-200 shot 2 stage, 50 off the line and another 100 once it's rolling. Certainly couldn't spray on the street though
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



