big block build
ok, so here's the deal. i was reading the post that some idiot started, cough, Mustang., cough, and i came to the conclusion that i sortta have the same question....but not quite
. i have decided that i am going to build a big block (unlikethat dumby who couldn't make up his mind, lol) for my'68 coupe (wow i thinkthatieven have the same car as him), anyways, but i can't decide to go with a 390 or modify a little more andgo with a429 or460. any help is useful. thanks.
one more qestion, what tranny would work forthose engines?
. i have decided that i am going to build a big block (unlikethat dumby who couldn't make up his mind, lol) for my'68 coupe (wow i thinkthatieven have the same car as him), anyways, but i can't decide to go with a 390 or modify a little more andgo with a429 or460. any help is useful. thanks.one more qestion, what tranny would work forthose engines?
well you wo't have the same clearnce issues as you would with an fe motor but i do believe that the headers are harder to put in. but the 429/ 460's cna make more hpp, the fe's were torque monsters.
Depends on what you have. The FE fits a little better and is a factory option. For a transmission, go with a C6 or Toploader 4-speed. You can build them in the 427 configuration and have a screaming monster, or 428 version and have a stump puller.
The 385 is more modern, but may be a bit harder to install.
The 385 is more modern, but may be a bit harder to install.
you think i should go with a 4 speed? i was thinking about a 5 speed, but hey i don't know very much
. what about the tko's? are they a good option? also, what mods am i looking at to make any of these big blocks work in my '68? am i looking at thousands of dollors of suspension upgrades?
. what about the tko's? are they a good option? also, what mods am i looking at to make any of these big blocks work in my '68? am i looking at thousands of dollors of suspension upgrades?
u just need a little stronger suspension i dont know how much, but it wont be 2 much, i have a c6 on my 390, and i love it, im working on getting 428 aluminum heads and a 428 crank how much does a 390 need to be bord out to turn it into a 428? mines bord out .60
You need to check the cyl wall core thickness to see if it's possible. The best way is to sonic map the block. But there is an easy field test you can try to see what wall cores were cast into the block. the test is called the "drill bit test". You need to knock out the blocks freeze plugs (three on each side) to access the cyl wall cores. You will then see the cyl wall cores and the gaps between them. Years of crap and crud can buildup so you need to scrape away some of that to get an accurate reading. If a 13/64" drill bit shank is a snug fit you have a very good chance of the 4.13 overbore and the block has 406/428 cyl wall cores. If a 17/64" drill bit shank fits snugly between the cyls the block has std 390 wall cores and will make the overbore to 4.13 impossible. As mentioned this is a basic field test and a sonic map will net the best results and to thickness and coreshift. even if the block has thicker wall cores coreshift can spoil the party. You can convert your bit sizes to suit your needs. The 64th's is just the standard measurement given for the test. Also credit is due to Dave Shoe on the net54 forum for inventing the drill bit test. It's a pretty neat way to check the blocks wall cores. Even if you can't acheive the 4.13 overbore you can indeed get a 3.98 428 crank and build a 410+. Stroker kits from Scat can even net you more cubes but you need to go to a 6.700 BBC rod.
-Hawkins
Stroke a 460 to 557. 460's are easier to find and bolt in. Both crites http://www.critesrestoration.com/and MPG heads http://mpgheads.com/have all the parts for the swap.
nd4spdenable PM's....
nd4spdenable PM's....
that is a massive weight diffrence, drivability ecomes an issue then the weight balance gets all jacked up, but i guess if your going in a straight line it doesnt matter tho.
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