hello . the thermostst thing is complicated . in your case it is always open which causes it to run hot however a hotter t stat by itsellf will not fix your prob . . if your radiator is a champion it is chinese the only us aluminum rads are griffen . us radiator . coolcraft . northern . possibly cgi and fllodyne or fluidyne. there are some other custom us rad mfgs liike mattsons but those are big big bucks . if your rad is us made as you say you have additionnal probs like a .060 engine or .040 with a core shift or too little ignition timinnng etc.. if you had too much timing you would hear it unless you have a low compression eng . chnge your coolant to 10 to 15 percent anti freeze for now . it will still protect against freezing to around 25 deg f above 0 . use the water wetter as suggested . also you might buy a soft start fann switch.

 

hello starfury . good to see you . that lincoln is actually claimed to be a real 3400 cfm . it puroortedly takes around 4o amps so im inclined to believe them . the ford contour dual fan is said to be aroound 3000 cfm at around 30 amps . it is around only 160.00 from the dealer including shroud thats ridiculously cheap.

 

Yeah, the only problem with the Lincoln fans is that they pull so much juice they burn out standard Bosch relays, which are usually rated at 30A. Taurus fans are about the same. Never heard of a Contour fan being used, but I'm sure anything's possible as long as you can make the shroud fit.

This is part of why I still run a clutch fan KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid)

 

hello . they have fan controllers and relays that can handle the mk 7 fan but they are pricey .. the contour fans actually look and fit like they were made for these cars but they are too wide to use on a 64 thru 67 narrow rad.ill see if i can find a photo of one mounted and post
.

 

have the heads been installed recently or it the engine factory?? you can install a headgasket backwards blowing of coolant passages(iirc on the passenger bank) and it will run hot

 

Solved the problem. The cooling system works well now. What we had was a "T" in the manifold with the temp sending unit on one side and the fan sending unit on the other. We broke that down and put the units each in their own boss on the intake and voila, that solved the problem. The fan now comes on earlier during warm-up and easily holds the temp. Thanks to all for the suggestions.