I say go for it. Take your time on the prep work and practice spraying on some old parts or metal until you get the gun and the spray patternright. Whats the worst that can happen? So if ya end up with a crappy paint job,sand it down and do it again. Just my .02 BTW, the black on flat black looks tight.

 

Thanks guys! Yeah I'm thinking about maybe trying to paint our John Deere or haybailer first (parents have a small farm, North Texas) just to practice up. The painting I have done has taught me alot...

 

Damit man,I was going to paint mine black with titanium stripes now I'm not so sure after seeing black on flat black[&:]

 

Back off bro!!!!!!! Black with black is mine, lol!

 

Alright mang,you got dibs............I'm still tempted though[8D]

 

Hey SuperDavid.
Your 20 years old man your supposed to know everything there is to know about everything. lol
My Son and his friends do anyway.
http://www.duplicolor.com/index.html
Check out the Paint shop link.
I painted for years and for a doit yourself guy this is the ticket.
Lacquer is how they and I did it in the ole days.
Runs ,orange peal and dirt it doesnt matter sand down and buff even if you go thru just paint right back over it.
Considering this product myself. I have Black ppg sitting there But I always loved working with Lacquer.
Now its available again.

 

lol, thanks dude! Yeah, I only know like 98% of the stuff out there, not quite 100% yet lol!

But yeah, that looks like it might be a really good idea! How does the final finish come out, and what is the difference?

 

It is a harder finish when it dries and it dries fast!
Most old rods were 20-40 coats of hand rubbed lacquer.
Ive had some mirror finishes with Lacquer.
You need to test the old paint 1st. The factory was enamel.
lacquer will burn in and lift the old paint. MAYBE.
Ive done light coats over enamel to start then let dry for a hour then laid down the paint job with no problems.
The 40 years of old enamel is hard as a rock in most cases and unless you have a fresher paint job it should be fine.
Test a area you cant see with lacquer thinner to see what it does 1st.
Just spay some on and see if it wrinkles up.
When you do paint, Put down 1 tack coat then about 15 min about 4 nice wet finish coats.
clean out your gun take hour or 2 then wets sand it with 400 clean clean clean.
4 more coats same thing now wait about 3 days wets sand with 400 then go to 1000 and wow
If you dont know how to buff take it to somone that does remember this paint is very easy to fix if you burn thru it.
You will be amazed at the shine and depth of the Finnish.

Down fall to lacquer was it does get brittle and will chip put a cap of flex agent in when you spar on each fill up.
It will help with that.

I may do mine with that easy to up keep up with.
Take your time dont freak out if it goes wrong just fix it. I bet you job after the sanding and buffing would put a macco to shame I know mine have.

BTW I own a Graphics / sign company and have been painting since I was about 17.

 

id go urethane or acrylic enamel like a factory paint job, that lacquer will not last quite as long as either of the one i mentioned id also fo for base clear exp if ur not painting in a booth that way youo can sand the trash out the base then reabase and tack it good and clean. just get some paint and practice what kinda gun do you have? a sata is a ggreat gun you can get some good deals on a sata jet 90 on ebay for 100$ or less also a 90-2 is a great gun for the money maybe try and find one on ebay also

 

That blue isn't the original color. Im guessing it was done in the 80's sometime, but I don't know that for sure.My gun is decent, I got it for like 90 bucks, but I can't remember what it is. For painting the actual car, I would probabl fork out the cash to get a good one.

Does anyone have any ideas about that black with flat black stripes? Would I just shoot the whole thing black then do the stripes with some kind of flat clear coat?