Do NOT use rtv on a valve cover gasket, chances are you'll just get bits of silicone in your valvetrain, and if you ever change it in the future you'll have to try and scrape all that crap off and if you miss any, it'll prolly leak. And it's not necessary, if your cover and head are true, then you should be able to put it on without sealant. I just wet the gasket with oil if they're the cork ones and bolt it up properly. The only way it'll leak is if the valve cover bolt rattles loose and backs out. Also, it's really worth spending the extra bit of cash to get the Fel Pro rubber type gaskets.

And the proper tools make a job go SO much easier, but ultimately it comes down to the person doing the job, and not the tool. Or rather, sometimes it is a matter of the tool, the tool who doesn't know what he's doing.

 

my thoughts exactly

 

I don't use cork gaskets or RTV. I've found it's better to go ahead and invest in the good FelPro blue metal reinforced silicone gaskets. They seal great and are reuseable.

 

I had got the cork one from CJ Pony Parts when I ordered my trans cooler lines, but I see that advance auto parts has the rubber Fel Pro. I will definately look into using that one.

 

Great work. "Its not the size of the tool, but the art of the craftsman"....

Yeah the dremel tool heads do wear out quickly, especially when I get in a hurry but they are great for those small confined areas.

The more you do, the more you learn, the more confident you become. BTW, use the rubber gasket, its reuseable.

 

Great looking job on the valve cover. It's all about craftsmanship, not the tools or the shop.

 

a) you can use cork, but you should use weatherstripping adhesive on one side (the gasket will NOT move) and a thin layer of permatex on the other side, this method works VERY well. I use the Ultra Black because any that squeezes out doesnt stick out like a sore thumb.

b) cover looks good, heres something for your consideration now that a base coat is down..... grab a can of wrinkle finish and follow the directions by applying multiple coats before the first coat dries, you'll be very impressed with the results.

c) compressors are a god-sent, probably the best couple hundred bucks i have ever spent on any tool in my garage. Just a walmart 5 gallon 110v unit or whatever it is, but OMG does it pay for itself time after time.

 

"I sometimes get jealous of all the work some of you guys do because compared to the "small" work that I do, there is no comparison. Hopefully will get a Compressor this Xmas, and then I'd invest in a sandblasting unit, but for now, my wire wheel on the bench grinder and dremel for the smaller hard to reach areas do me fine. "

Matt,

Great advice from all of the posters, and remember, when you put it back on don't overtorque the screws (no more than snug using a 1/4 rachet (3-5 ft lbs if you have aT-wrench)) and start tightening from the middle outwards.A good rule of thumb is to start in the middle and go accross to the other side then proceed clockwise (or CCW - it doesn't matter) until all are snugged; then go back and recheck that all are tight.

I applaude you for working on something, obvisiously tools make things easier, but without the skills the tool is just a trophy - good work!!!

 

I know what you mean matt i have to cycle to my car (7 miles) and then work in a non-heated, non-lighted greenhouse were I have to do anything in daylight, However honest hard work and dedication will beat alimitless toolbecause you can have the tools but you need motivation!!! Keep at it she will be a beauty

 

For cork VC gaskets I use a small line, less than 1/8" wide,of high temp black RTV (I use The Right Stuff, but Ultra Black works) on the valve cover side. It's not required, but I've had better luck with this method.

For silicone/nitrile gaskets, I don't use any sealer. No sealing problems with my current nitrile gaskets