Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

New 65/66 Cowl assemblies

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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 06:06 PM
  #11  
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Daze
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Default RE: 1965/1966 Cowl


ORIGINAL: mustdoc (Most of us are aware that there is a serious design flaw in the original that predisposes to clogs and rust development. I was hoping someone would make one of these that had a better designed drainage scheme.)
I have a solution or at least a solution for my own car. I am going to use the drain holes as inputs for tubing that runs to the front of the car and then shave the vents that way I can still have fresh air input and don't have to worry about the water issues.
Old Dec 8, 2007 | 10:30 AM
  #12  
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mustdoc
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Default RE: 1965/1966 Cowl

Daze

Sounds like a great idea/mod - have you got any pics or diagrams? I would guess you could treat the cowl rust with POR or some other rust tx product and then divert the water flow all without having to drill out hundreds of spot welds?

I really think if anyone can come up with a "relatively" cheap and less invasive way to address both the rust and drainage problem they will be able to help a lot of us out!

One guy near me wanted to add a tilted sheet of metal directly under the cowl grille opening and divert the water and gunk into the engine bay with larger drain holes that would also allow debris to empty. It sounded like it would work but I had questions about debris catching of fire from the engine heat. Your plan sounds more feasible as long as the tubes can be easily cleaned out/blown out with compressed air!
Old Dec 8, 2007 | 11:00 AM
  #13  
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Clu7ch
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Default RE: 1965/1966 Cowl

ORIGINAL: john721

no, you don't have to disassemble the whole car. just have to remove the windshield, remove the fenders, remove the wiper motor and linkages, remove the duct vents,drill out about 270 spot welds, weld it all back in, seam seal it and paint, reassemble interior. it is possible to install a 67-68 lower pan if your top is good. all i had to do was remove the 67-68 wiper bracket and reweld the 65-66 on to it. sounds difficult, but it wasn't. best of all, i know i have it all coated inside with POR 15, which you wouldn't be able to do with a pre-welded unit...
In otherwords, you don't have to disassemble the whole car, just the fronthalf of the car.


LOL!!!

Hell I'd buy one. I'm gonna have the whole car disassembled when I start working it again. The only thing I'm not too keen on is drilling out that many spot welds. 270 sounds like it could take a while!

ORIGINAL: mustdoc

Sounds like a great idea/mod - have you got any pics or diagrams? I would guess you could treat the cowl rust with POR or some other rust tx product and then divert the water flow all without having to drill out hundreds of spot welds?
Mustdoc, I do believe someone here did just that. They opened the side of their cowl, cleaned it out, POR'd it, made a trough to correct the water flow and welded the piece they cut out back in. I'm sure it saved them a handful of hours and a few hundred dollars. [8D]
Old Dec 8, 2007 | 12:43 PM
  #14  
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Daze
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 877
From:
Default RE: 1965/1966 Cowl


ORIGINAL: mustdoc

Daze

Sounds like a great idea/mod - have you got any pics or diagrams? I would guess you could treat the cowl rust with POR or some other rust tx product and then divert the water flow all without having to drill out hundreds of spot welds?

I really think if anyone can come up with a "relatively" cheap and less invasive way to address both the rust and drainage problem they will be able to help a lot of us out!

One guy near me wanted to add a tilted sheet of metal directly under the cowl grille opening and divert the water and gunk into the engine bay with larger drain holes that would also allow debris to empty. It sounded like it would work but I had questions about debris catching of fire from the engine heat. Your plan sounds more feasible as long as the tubes can be easily cleaned out/blown out with compressed air!
I don't have any pics because the mod has not been done yet. My plan is to box in the upper part of the inner fender on the under side and then run it in to the drain holes. By putting a screen on the input of the tube there should never be any junk building up in the cowl.

As far as the other idea I would be worried about the air from the fan blowing junk from the motor up in to the cowl as well as warm air from the motor coming through the vents.
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