yeah just buy a grant steering wheel instalation kit. thats the hub. its a $15 fix

 

alright...thanks guys!

ill see if RDW has it, then i could pick it up today and get her back on the road. out of my family's 3 cars 2 of them are out of commission at the moment so i kind of need to get it fixed asap. haha

 

Just aFWIW - Rag joints didn't start appearing on 'stangs until late 67/early 68. Until then, Ford used solid steering shafts from the steering box to the steering wheel on most'stangs. That's why the 65-67 steering shafts are sometimes referred to as steering "spears"!!! [&:]

Crazy to learn that it was the steering wheel hub - and yeah - you're lucky it happened when it did... Best of luck with the fix.

 

yeah...its pretty scary to think about and it happened just 2 days after i had been in a wreck in my friends car but thats a whole different story.

thanks for the help guys, i appreciate it!

 

EEEEWWWW, that is cast aluminum. Make sure the part you get is either steel or billet aluminum. Less likely to strip like that one. [&:]

In order of preference: Steel, Billet aluminum, cast aluminum.

 

thanks, ill keep that in mind. it was something the po replaced for some reason and ive had some issues with it before so i guess it was just a matter of time.

 

Make sure that the splines (that's what those ridges that look like gear teeth are called) on the steering column shaft itself are in good shape. If they're rounded over, have pieces missing, are crooked, corroded,or otherwise damaged, the same thing will eventually happen to the new hub.


Norm

 

My "guess" based on what I've seen and experienced with Jeeps is that the retaining nut may have not been properly torqued down. I believe the shaft is slightly tapered (you need a puller to remove the wheel, pitman arm, etc.) and it relies on being tight to hold it snug.

Personally, I'd skip the Grant wheel and pick up a stock repop wheel and horn. The larger diameter will make steering your non-power assist vehicle a lot easier.

Good luck!
Jeff

 

That is caused by the nut on the end of the shaft not being properly tightened. It's moreso a problem in manual steer cars as you're using the steering wheel as leverage to turn the wheels.I used to have to pull my horn button off periodically and retorque the nut because it would start to loosen and that aluminum splined assembly would get loose.

When you install the new one, 1) be sure it's the right one for your car, 2) use an oversize socket and drive it down on the shaft securely. 3) torque the steering shaft on TIGHTLY....

Conner, something else you may want to consider is installing a roller Idler arm assembly from www.streetortrack.com. This idler makes manual steering quite a bit easier. It's not power steering, but it's a lot better then before.

 

alright, thanks for all the replies guys. i have noticed that nut being loose before so that sounds like thats what caused it. i tried tightening it down quite a few times and it would always end up loose a few days later. do you think i would be alright if i tightened her down nice and snug and used some thread locker to keep it in place?