Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

control arms

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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 05:00 PM
  #11  
hhiibel's Avatar
hhiibel
 
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Default RE: control arms

the negative wedge kit is the complete kit to do the drop. It has the wedges, shock tower plates drilled for UCA relocation and all new ball joints. It's a pretty good deal and gets your front end to where camber/caster can be set for agressive handling. Last I saw about $250.

www.cobraautomotive.com has rollerized perches. Also check out their 65-66 coil spring cover mod's allowing bigger tires.

If considering heim'ed strut rods, look into using OEM 67 cougar's with some poly bushings.
Old Jan 3, 2008 | 05:09 PM
  #12  
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racin66coupe
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Default RE: control arms

whered you see the negative wedge kit for 250??
Old Jan 3, 2008 | 06:25 PM
  #13  
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Daze
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Default RE: control arms


ORIGINAL: hhiibel

the negative wedge kit is the complete kit to do the drop. It has the wedges, shock tower plates drilled for UCA relocation and all new ball joints. It's a pretty good deal and gets your front end to where camber/caster can be set for agressive handling. Last I saw about $250.

www.cobraautomotive.com has rollerized perches. Also check out their 65-66 coil spring cover mod's allowing bigger tires.

If considering heim'ed strut rods, look into using OEM 67 cougar's with some poly bushings.
Not to be argumentative, but I am going to have to disagree. IF you are not racing the car ALL THE TIME there is no reason to do a 1.75" UCA drop. 1" is sufficient AND free (other than your time) as apposed to $250.
How to do the 1" UCA drop
Also unless they have started offering something new the spring perches that Cobra Automotive sells are NOT rollerized because that indicates some sort of ball or roller bearing when in fact they are bronze bushings units like Ford originally designed and when a bronze bushing goes head to head with an actual roller type bearing in ANY application the roller bearing will win in every aspect; drag, longevity, operating temperature, and functionality, every time.

If you want Roller spring perches Opentracker makes a wonderful product or if you can weld make your own.
How to make Roller Spring Perches
Old Jan 3, 2008 | 09:18 PM
  #14  
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htwheelz67
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Default RE: control arms

I was looking at opentracker and maier but found global west UCA's for 550.00 at dallas mustang, I added roller perches and I am way happy...........
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 12:52 PM
  #15  
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hhiibel
 
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Default RE: control arms

straight off the cobraautomotive.com site, been in their catalog for at least 5 years (http://www.cobraautomotive.com/cobra_cat.pdf). Sounds like what you described though.Just bronze bushings no bearings? I wonder how they get away with saying fully rollerized. Anyway at least they have a grease fitting:



www.mustangsplus.com
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2491





[/align]See details
1965-66 4-Bolt Negative Wedge Kit
Part No.: 01459


Our price: $249.95 Kit

Now all you need do is break out the plasma cutter/MIG and mega-box your current control arms. Also, troll the 4x4 sites to find components to fab your own heim'ed struts.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 02:15 PM
  #16  
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Daze
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Default RE: control arms

Nothing wrong with their perches but the term "rollerized" is misleading.







Old Jan 4, 2008 | 02:38 PM
  #17  
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Scott H.
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Default RE: control arms

.....

Last edited by Scott H.; Jan 15, 2010 at 12:03 AM.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 04:20 PM
  #18  
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109jb
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From: Illinois
Default RE: control arms

ORIGINAL: hhiibel

the negative wedge kit is the complete kit to do the drop. It has the wedges, shock tower plates drilled for UCA relocation and all new ball joints. It's a pretty good deal and gets your front end to where camber/caster can be set for agressive handling. Last I saw about $250.

www.cobraautomotive.com has rollerized perches. Also check out their 65-66 coil spring cover mod's allowing bigger tires.

If considering heim'ed strut rods, look into using OEM 67 cougar's with some poly bushings.
Yes and as I said, if you are not lowering the upper control arm more than 1 inch, you don't need to put wedges under the ball joints. In this case $250 isn't a deal. Come to think of it, for me $250 isn't a deal in any case because all you are getting is $40 worth of ball joints, a template that can be made from a piece of scrap metal with a drill and a center punch, and 2 machined wedges that I personally wouldn't pay more than $20 each for. If I were making these kits and selling them, I would be laughing everytime someone paid such an outlandish price to me for something so simple. I was a machinist for 15 years and I'd say that if set up for production there isn't more than 2 minutes of machine time per wedge. Hell, a CNC machining center would be spending more time changing tools than it would be making chips.

The 1 inch drop is free and dimensions for lowering the control arms are available for free many places on the internet. The 1 inch drop is about all you need for a street car in my opinion.

You can do what you want and if you think it's a good deal then that's great, but not in my book.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 05:26 PM
  #19  
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hhiibel
 
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Default RE: control arms

109jb,

About 1.5" for 65-66's and 1.75" for 67-68's is the best drop allowing optimal suspension setup. And once you do the 1" you can't easily go for the correct dropbecause the shock towers are becoming swiss cheese with all them holes. Having gone the fab it yourself route, I'd say the kit is a deal. If you want I can send you contact info for the guy that cnc'd my wedges for about $75.

Remember, 1" came about because that's all the SCCA allowed Shelby to do. Also,at 1" center to centerwith 5/8 or 9/16bolts you don't have much meat between the old and new holes.

-howard
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