Hey guys I just wanted to see if I could a little overlook on this build I am doing for a friend. While The work is getting split between us, this is his money and his motor. I am currently porting is D80E heads for the 331 stroker.

The plans are to take the 87 bronco based block and put it in his 67 mustang. The heads are going to be kept for now fully ported and gasket matched with a good valve job. I am in the process of that right now.

I would like to see if this motor could make 300rwhp or 400 crank hp on the stock style heads. Here is the list of parts I have assembled. I am trying to get the complete list and have everything work together good.

Budget.. Eh well lets just remember he a senior in highschool

ForgedScat Crank, Forged Pistons, Forged I beam rods, Bearings, Rings = 805$
SCAT Engine Components 1-94055 - Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies - summitracing.com

-Summit Harmonic Balancer SFI approved $140
Summit SUM-C4270 - Summit Bracket Racer SFI Harmonic Dampers - summitracing.com

Flexplate $40 Scat

Flexplate bolt kit $13.00
ARP 200-2902 - ARP Pro Series Flexplate Bolt Kits - summitracing.com

-Harmonic Balancer Bolts 12pt black $20
ARP 150-2501 - ARP Balancer Bolt Kits - summitracing.com

-Camshaft $175 Ford racing .498/.498lift and 282/282dur advertised
Ford Racing M-6250-E303 - Ford Racing Camshafts - summitracing.com


-Edelbrock rpm air gap manifold $240
Edelbrock 7521 - Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds - summitracing.com

-Intake Manifold Stud Kit black oxide $60
ARP 354-2103 - ARP Stainless Steel Intake Manifold Stud Kits - summitracing.com

-Holley Street Avenger Carb 670cfm electric choke, dual inlet $370
Holley 0-80670 - Holley Street Avenger Carburetors - summitracing.com

-MSD 6al box $220
MSD Ignition 6420 - MSD 6AL CD Ignitions - summitracing.com

-MSD Coil $40
MSD Ignition 8202 - MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coils - summitracing.com

-MSD COIL bracket $5
MSD Ignition 8213 - MSD Chrome Coil Brackets - summitracing.com

-MSD distributor $270
MSD Ignition 8598 - MSD Billet Distributors - summitracing.com

-Taylor spiral wound wires wires $110
Taylor Cable 79658 - Taylor 409 Race-Fit Pro Race Spark Plug Wires - summitracing.com

-Oil Pan $225 (moroso 7qt black)
Moroso 20511 - Moroso Street/Strip Oil Pans - summitracing.com

-Oil Pump $60 (Ford Racing)
Ford Racing M-6600-D2 - Ford Racing High Volume Oil Pumps - summitracing.com

-Oil Pick up $60 (moroso)
Moroso 24519 - Moroso Oil Pump Pickups - summitracing.com

-ARP Oil pan bolts $25 (black oxide
ARP 254-1802 - ARP Oil Pan Bolt Kits - summitracing.com

-Windage tray $60 (moroso)
Moroso 22930 - Moroso Louvered Windage Trays - summitracing.com

-Main Girdle w/ bolts (trick flow race) $250
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-5150R700 - Trick Flow Main Stud Girdles for Ford - summitracing.com

-Water Pump $ 140 (Aluminum Ford Racing)
Ford Racing M-8501-E351S - Ford Racing Shorty-Style Mechanical Water Pumps - summitracing.com

-Timing cover & Water Pump Bolts ARP for aluminum pump and cover $40
ARP 454-1504 - ARP Timing Cover Bolt Kits - summitracing.com

Thread in freeze plugs $9.00
Ford Racing M-6026-B302 - Ford Racing Threaded Freeze Plug Kits - summitracing.com

-Timing Cover $80
Dorman 635-100 - Dorman Timing Chain Covers - summitracing.com

-Fuel Pump Block off plate $12
Summit SUM-G243 - Summit Billet Fuel Pump Block-Off Plates - summitracing.com

---Fuel System---
-7, 3/8" npt to -8an fittings
summit brand $3.69
Summit SUM-220846B - Summit AN to NPT Adapter Fittings - summitracing.com

-9 -8an hose fittings
Earl's Performance AT800108ERL BLACK 10$/each
Earl's Performance AT800108ERL - Earl's Performance Ano-Tuff Swivel Seal Hose Ends - summitracing.com

Bulk head fittings black summit $5.69
Summit SUM-220837B - Summit Bulkhead Adapter Fittings - summitracing.com

Carb Feed lines Earls performance $100 Dual inlet

-8an hose from tank to pump, pump to filter, filter to regulator, regulator to carb. and return to tank from regulator.
20ft is 90$

-Electric Fuel Pump aeromotive 11203 (3/8" npt outlet 14 psi, 150gph)
Aeromotive 11203 - Aeromotive Street Rod Fuel Pumps - summitracing.com

-Aeromotive pressure regulator 13301 (3/8"npt inlet,outlet,retur

 

i understand budget...but..

scratch the 331 get a 347...you'll thank me later

go junking for gt40's they will be better than said heads you are using.
don't need a msd dizzy keep it stock and just put a better cap/rotor on it
coil is fine
box skip it for later
oil pan don't need it unless clearance is an issue

now yousaved yourself a crap load of money to get a better cam and get the gt40's warmed over with right springs ect..now if you can't get heads then don't skimp on stroke or cam..

 

Ok, having done this already, here's my input:

1)331's are great. Greater longevity compared to a 347 due to the improved rod angle, especially if those are the 5.4" rods, which I believe they are, and nearly equal torque potential. But if you're going for pure power, 347 is definitely the way to go.

2) I agree with grabbem about the heads. Unless you can get the work done for ultra cheap, those D8 heads aren't worth putting work into. GT40's are nice if you can find them for a decent price, or you can get some World Products Windsor Jr's for about $800 ready to slap on.

3) I doubt you need an SFI balancer. I'd recommend a non-SFI Powerforce balancer. It'll save money, works great, and it has both the 68+ 4-bolt pattern and the 67's 3-bolt pattern.

4) I'm not a roller cam guru, but I think you can find a better cam for a 331 than that.

5) Look at an entire ARP engine hardware kit. No reason for intake studs.

6) No reason for the MSD box right now. If you really want to replace the distributor (nothing really wrong with a stock unit with an electronic upgrade), it's easy to add a box later with the MSD ready-to-run unit.

7) Skip the high dollar wires. A set of 8mm Moroso cut-to-fit wires will run half that, maybe.

8) I happen to like 7qt oil pans (hence why I have one). Not required, but it ensures you won't ever run out of oil when cornering.

9) You won't likely be able to run a windage tray with a main girdle. If you want both, look at the DSS setup. Otherwise, pick one.

10) I don't know why you'd need thread-in freeze plugs everywhere. Personally, I'd have your machine shop install standard brass plugs on everything except the oil galley plugs, which should be changed to threaded if they haven't been already.

11) Is your timing cover broken? If not, I don't see why you need a new one. If you do, that's not the right one. Look at a Mustang supplier for the correct cover.

12) Why electric fuel pump? Nothing wrong with a good mechanical unit.

13) I don't think you need head studs. A set of good ARP head bolts should be fine, and will make it much easier to pull a head while the engine's in the car.

14) Motor mounts aren't going to be that easy. 67's use one-year-only frame brackets and mounts that the aftermarket refuses to acknowledge. You'll need to either convert to 68-70 frame brackets, or pick up the Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts and just use those.

There's probably more, but I'm at work, so I'll think about it later

 

head studs are a sure fail safe wish i did it on mine..for a number of reasons.
347's life span is a myth...they have been improved on so much that you wouldn't believe

hr cam?..tight lash solid could be an option but intake/carb would have to be scrapped

but that c4 would probably gernade pretty quick when that loud pedal gets mashed at the track

i did some figuring this is a high budget so to speak.

with the money you are forking over...i can see a 350+ rwhp car with even gt40's,and prrrrr like a kitten..

 

Definately get a better cam and heads. If you run a Moroso or Canton main girdle then you can use the Canton windage tray that bolts to a main girdle since both of them are threaded for it. And Lakewood makes good engine mounts for 67 small blocks, Muscle Mounts. That's what I'm running and they hold up really well. Tight fit trying to get them to line up when you drop the engine in, but once they're in they last.

 

Okay so let me just see if I got everything,

The heads are going to be those for now until he gets them down the road. I am doing the head work myself is the only reason im using them.

The cam will most likely not be that one, I would liek to stay around .500 lift, 112 center.

The timing cover is broken and this is a 87 5.0 block from a bronco so most likely going to get just a stock replacement just was searching for a price

I would like to do the head studs from my experience I do them with every build

I would like to run the tray and girdle so I think i'll have to look into a combo from canton or moroso because the dss is overpriced IMO

Thread in freeze plugs were just to keep him busy and they only cost 10 bucks since we have the equipment to do it

After talking with my friend the fuel pump will be mechanic, Any reccomdations on which to use?

The stock distributor is trash so the msd setup will go into effect, I like to pull everything out of the motor that I can.

I'll have to check into the motor mounts.

I'll probably end up doing different wires because most of these parts will ordered through a local speed shop.

And the reason for going 331 is because of what i have heard from other people, I heard the 331 will be more reliable however the 347 will pull more power. From everythign I have read and heard I will stick with the 331 and I don't have to notch the cylinder walls for the 331. I really don't want to do that.

So i'd like to know which ballancer I should use, which mechanical fuel pump, what cam, and what valve springs/keepers/locks.

Please just lmk everything and I'll be ordering his full list of parts soon.

 

dude pm me

 

If you get a new dizzy look into the MSD E curve or the Crane version, instead of springs and weights it uses a microchip and a selector switch to set the centrifugal and vacuum advance curve and limits. Less moving parts to have problems with.

As far as valve springs, I'm partial to Comp's Beehives, but some people don't like the idea of running a single spring. Their 10deg locks and retainers, steel. That's the setup I have and it turns rpm without issue. Fuel pump, a Edelbrock or Holley mech unit would work well, with a nice pressure regulator. And there are decent OTS cams from Comp/Crane/Lunati etc. Get something dual pattern. Or a custom grind if you don't mind spending the extra dough.

 

No, it is not a myth. The fact is, the rod ratio sucks. It puts a lot ofstrain on the rings andcylinder walls. You cannot change this. Short term, no problem. Long term, a 331 (especially a long-rod 331) treated exactly the same will last longer. Period. Just like a 302 or 289 will last longer than a 331. You simply don't have that side loading you do with the longer stroke. I'm not talking about chopping the life of the engine in half, but you do need to be aware that it does put more wear on the engine.

You very well may have to notch the cylinder skirts for the 331 though. I had to have mine notched to clear the cap screw headsfor my rods.

 

Im about to build a 347. I couldn't decide whether to go with it or a 331, but I chose the 347 b/c I dont drive the car much, and I want the most power out of it that I can get. Has anybody ever notched the cylinder walls themselves to clear the 347s stroke? Im curious about this, b/c i am going to do it myself. (I am a mechanic, and have buddies that can help too.)