hello im going to take my car to get the aligned tomorrow,but a few days ago the was aquestion about radial tires. there was also a paper to print and take to the shop that has better specs for the setup that helps alot instead of the factory specs. i cant find the thread and was wondering if you guys could help me out and tell me where to get it and explain why its better. ive also heard that there is some shims that are needed to get the alignment right, i think i have some ill try to post a pic of them to see if those are the ones, just in case they aren't the ones where can i get them. when im driving my car feels wierd hopefully its the fact that i replaced all of the tie rods and draglink, and i haven't had the alignment done. thanks

 

here is the info depending on year and are effective with or with out the UCA drop

Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby drop�.

These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8� toe in

If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).


Please align to these specs “1967-1970 Mustang, Falcon & Cougar Performance Alignment with Shelby drop�.

These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8� toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).


The reason these specs are the way to go is they improve handling with out sacrificing tire life. When ford came out with its specs they did not have performance handling in mind, were more concerned about an easy alignment, and was less of an issue with biplias tires because those tires inhearently had better road contact. Make sure the alignment shop prints out a before and after sheet to prove that they aligned it the way you wanted. a lot of shops feel that the customer knows nothing about alignment and will tell you they used your specs and then use ford specs because thats what their computer tells them to do. As far as the Shims, on the 64.5-66 Mustangs shims are how the car is aligned and any good alignment shop should have them in stock and include them as part of the alignment.

 

thanks Daze i really appriciate it buy any chance would these be the shims i found them on front frame behind the shock, and spring on the little ledge but dont know what they are for

 

sorry i tried to put the pic smaller , but i quess it didnt work

 

It depends on how aggressive you drive as well. I'm running -1 camber with really good tire wear, but I also corner a bit harder than the average driver, and the locker generates more push in a turn. Also, 67-up don't use those shims to align the vehicle, or at least they don't have to.

 

yes those are alignment shims used to adjust alignment for the first generation Mustang. The specs I gave you are perfect for a street driven car, but I would add more negative camber and more caster for a track car.

 

thank you all for your help im glad i didn't throw them away, when they changed my drums i saw them and threw them to the side i didnt know what they were for then i said maybe ill need them never know so i picked them up im glad i did. my car is a 65 coupe which i plan to use as a street car no track or hard racing. once again thanks cant wait till tomorrow hopefully it will drive straight, with no problemsafter the alignment.

 

If you're not going to corner it hard, stick to -0.5° maximum (though I'd suggest -0.25° as a minimum). If/when you start driving the corners with a good bit more enthusiasm, somewhere between -0.5° and -1° (-0.75° ± 0.25°) should be enough for all but the hardest driving or the softest springs/sta-bars.

The thumbnail car is set at -0.7° for street and almost -2.7° for autocross.


Norm

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