I've got an opportunity to pick up a Hobart 180, 230V MIG welder for a very reasonable price, used. Any one have experience with this particular unit? I was looking at the online user manual and was wondering how this unit is on sheet metal: 66 qrtr's and trunk. I've heard it's a balancing act with welders, you get a good one, the problem isbeing able todrop the power/ampere's low enough to weld sheet metal without punching through the metal, and the home depot specials don't have the power for goodpenetration. Lookin to the guys who've done sheet metal on this one.... thanks much

 

That is a nice hobbyist welder. For all intents and purposes, the Hobart is effectively a lower priced Miller. FWIW, I'm a hack welder and haven't had too many problems with thin metal with my 230V Lincoln welder. If the price is right, I wouldn't be afraid to jump on the used Hobart.

 

The newer light-duty Hobart 230v models (187 & 210) claim that you can weld all the way down to 24 gauge and that the current can be as low as 25A, so I expect that the 180 is similar. Like gothand, my MIG experience is amateur-level with a 230v Lincoln, and I've welded down at least as thin as 22 ga with reasonable success.

I had to weld in patch panels to both lower rear quarters on the thumbnail car, with the horizontal welds being below the body line. The picture was taken 4 or 5 years later, and there's 1/16" or less Bondo thickness anywhere (the picture can be expanded a second time for a still closer view).
[IMG]local://upfiles/62186/CC74DCE602834DC4A690D5430C16ED17.jpg[/IMG]


Norm

 

As long as you have adjustability, you can get the machine to do what you want it to. I did my complete car with a MIG welder that I have used to weld 1-1/4" thick steel plate. It welded my quarters/floors/tailight panel...everything with no problems. I used .035 bare wire w/75-25 gas. Check to see if the machine has CC-CV capabilities, along with independant wire feed and amperage controls and you'll be fine.

 

When it comes to welding body panels the "penetration" the welder is capable of is not that big of an issue. If your going to be welding body panels who cares if it can weld 1/8" iron "as advertised"? That's not what your buying it for anyway.

The Hobart MIG welders I have used are great welders for sheet metal/body work applications. They have total adjustment on amperage and wire speed and seem to run like a champ. But make sure it is a full MIG set-up. I have heard lots of bad things about the "flux-core" wire welders (regardless of brand). I've heard they produce a LOT of spatter.

I have found that the best way to weld body panels is to "spot" weld the corners/key points to lock the panel in place and then slowly fill in between the spots, alternating around the panel to prevent heat build up/warpage.

When it comes down to it...it's all experience. The more you weld the better you are at it no matter what brand of welder you are using.

 

This is so true! We had a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 wire feed and it was awful to use because of the splatter. I went out last week and got the MIG upgrade kit for it (~130.00 locally) and it makes all the difference in the world. Very little splatter and much better flow. It was worth every penny. We've caught ourselves a few times using it without gloves even and haven't been burned... not suggested though! We'd smack and toss the gloves at whomever was working without them.

 

If you use flux core wire in the best of machines, you will have spatter. It's the flux-core wire itself that makes the spatter, not the machine. I used top of the line Miller machines building the car, and had to use a Harbor Freight machine for a last minute repair at the body shop. He had it spooled with flux core. He didn't know the difference. A quick ride to the local weldeing supply shop for a spool of 70-s bare, and it worked excellent.

 

If you pick up this welder I would like to hear how it does. I have looked at the Hobarts and if memory serves me correct they are made byMiller. I have millers at work they are very easy to use.