Dead Gauges
I replaced my faded dash bezel last year. Ever since then I can not get my gauges to stay working.
After several attempts3 IVR's, new sending unitsand new guageswe determined it was a ground problem. I added a ground wire from the IVR to the frame. Started the car and was thrilled to have working guages. Then about a week later they died again. The Amp meter has always worked.
I am sick of replacing $27.00 IVR's and not having a gas gauge. Any idea's on what I should try next?
After several attempts3 IVR's, new sending unitsand new guageswe determined it was a ground problem. I added a ground wire from the IVR to the frame. Started the car and was thrilled to have working guages. Then about a week later they died again. The Amp meter has always worked.
I am sick of replacing $27.00 IVR's and not having a gas gauge. Any idea's on what I should try next?
IVR = voltage regulator?
I believe the original ones were adjustable. Not sure if that can help you but since youve tried 3????
I hate auto electrics!!! My dash issues all came down to bad earth and the odd short. THe shorts blew fuses. The bad earth made the gauges do stoopid things.
All i can suggest is check the earth again...definately metal to metal contact and tight enough. I feel your pain[:@]
I believe the original ones were adjustable. Not sure if that can help you but since youve tried 3????
I hate auto electrics!!! My dash issues all came down to bad earth and the odd short. THe shorts blew fuses. The bad earth made the gauges do stoopid things.
All i can suggest is check the earth again...definately metal to metal contact and tight enough. I feel your pain[:@]
IVR is the Internal Voltage Regulator. It attaches to the back of the gauge cluster. There is an adjustment screw that is set and glued in place from the manufacturer. I checked to be sure my new ground was tight and had not come loose. It was nice and snug.
Someone told me they had seen something about making your own IVR for about $10.00 in parts from Radio Shack. Does anyone know anything about that?
Someone told me they had seen something about making your own IVR for about $10.00 in parts from Radio Shack. Does anyone know anything about that?
from what you write do I understand correctly that once you replace the IVR it works fine and then stops a week later until you replace it again? So can we be sure that replacing IVR always resolves the problem? if yes, then we can go from there and maybe find why your car hates them ...?!
Before you replace the regulator, are you using a meter to determine that your getting 12 volts in and about 5 volts out? Don't rely on the gauges to tell if the regulator is working. Regulators shouldn't burn out that easy.
I had a problem with the ignition switch where the car would start and run but the gauges wouldn't work. When I jiggle the switch the gauges would come on.
Im using a 7805 voltage regulator in my car. I buy electronics in quantity, the regulator costs about 25 cents. At radio Shack the parts will cost less than 5 bucks.
I had a problem with the ignition switch where the car would start and run but the gauges wouldn't work. When I jiggle the switch the gauges would come on.
Im using a 7805 voltage regulator in my car. I buy electronics in quantity, the regulator costs about 25 cents. At radio Shack the parts will cost less than 5 bucks.
Kali: Yes, when I replace the IVR the gauges work for a week or so. It's not a D/D so a week or so is anywhere from 20 miles to 50 miles of driving.
65Coupester: My Brother in Law is the electric guy for my car. I am going to forward this message to him and ask him about the voltage in and out. I do have a meter (I don't know to much about using it)and I know he used it to test a bunch of things the first time we got them working.
65Coupester: My Brother in Law is the electric guy for my car. I am going to forward this message to him and ask him about the voltage in and out. I do have a meter (I don't know to much about using it)and I know he used it to test a bunch of things the first time we got them working.
check the center wire on the ignition switch for connection/tightness,,,, the reason I say this is due to past experience ,,,if that sucker is kinda /sorta loose/tight ...your gauges and radio will go bonkers,,, YA I know it sounds crazy but everything else worked when this garbage was going on,, it seemed like the losse'ness would really mess things up even if you didn't go near the ignition switch
Just installed the new fancy $50 Electronic IVR. Let her idle in the garage for a few minutes and the gas gauge works. I didn't let her run long enough for the oil and temp to move.
Now my dilema is:
Do I dare take her out on the street -or-
never start her up again and always be able to say the *#@^$'s work
I'm going to the Ocean City Car Show tomorrow and taking the kids to 6 Flags on Sunday. So I'll have working gauges until at least Monday. Yeh Ha!!!!!
Now my dilema is:
Do I dare take her out on the street -or-
never start her up again and always be able to say the *#@^$'s work
I'm going to the Ocean City Car Show tomorrow and taking the kids to 6 Flags on Sunday. So I'll have working gauges until at least Monday. Yeh Ha!!!!!
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