What's involved with putting a 5.0 liter Ford into a 1968 Mustang? The FAQs still are not back up and aside from the 28 oz vs 50 oz imbalance issue, I don't what other issue there might be.
Thanks
p.s.: I'm would be planning on using my old carb and intake manifold plus the stock 1968 exhaust. I'm not interested in EFI ect. I'm looking at getting a 5.0 longblock.

 

You'll need your old oil pan, and I'd recommend keeping your original timing cover and the v-belt setup. You'll need to use the 5.0 balancer,though, but yourcrank pulley should bolt up to it fine. Pretty much everything else will swap over easily to the new block. The only problem you might run into is that the new block doesn't havea mounting boss for the clutch z-bar. If you have a manual, you'll have to buy an aftermarket bracket for the z-bar (not hard to find), but you don't have to worry about it if you have an auto.

Depending on whether or not it's a roller cam block, you may also need to swap distributor gears. A roller cam requires a steel distributor gear.

 

I put a 5.0 based 347 in my 66.
putting the 289 timing cover on it looks just like the 289 did.
Afr heads are on mine but you can bolt up the stock logs if you wanted too.
Use your old oil pan b/c the 5.0 is a rear sump.
Not really that much diff in the 2 as far as bolt ons.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! I had heard that the engine mounts changed on the 5.0 but I can't remember where I saw that. What year did the roller cam appear and does that mean that you must use a roller cam or can you put flat lifters in a roller block?

 

In the Mustang, 1985 I believe. No, you can change the cam to a non-roller cam and drop in regular lifters. I'm not sure why you'd want to though....

Make sure you use a "regular" rotation water pump thatenters on the passenger side. 5.0 motors use a reverse rotationwater pump that enters on the drivers side.

Dave

 

Also check to see if the balancer sticks too far foward into the radiator (electric fan, if you have one) area. I just put a 302 in my 67 and that was a small issue. Changing out the fly wheel too as already mentioned. Also had to fabricate a hole for the clutch Z-bar to attach on the engine side (if you have a manual, with Z-bar).

James

 

I converted my C-4 to a T-5 previously when I put a '90 5.0 in my 65 so the clutch was already converted to a cable via a Mustang Steve dual master/booster/ pedal assembly combo (which is a nice unit BTW), but I was installing a power rack and pinion at the same time so I changed over to a March belt system because I had non-power steering originally so the original bracketry was not going to work. It's really a straight forward swap if it's just the long block. I had several other goals in mind when I did mine, but the things that everyone's saying so far are pretty much the issues you'll have to deal with: 50oz offset flywheel, front cover swap or relocation of the dipstick, oil pan pick-up, front sump oil pan and PROPERLY adjusted pick-up. I threaded the old oil dip stick location and installed a plug, but I'm sure you could JB weld it as well. The other thing to remember is you might need to convert to an electric fuel pump depending on the 5.0 year as there is nowhere to mount a mechanical pump on newer 5.0 front cover (if you decide to go with the serpentine, you will need a reverse rotation water pump in this case as well). If you just swap over all of the engine parts it's pretty easy. I didn mine the hard way, but it was more fun doing it

 

need to change the oil pan, run electric fuel pump, watch for the reverse rotation water pump, new flex plate and flywheel. also need to tap a new hole for the dip stick