Stop light problem
I have an issue with the left stop light.
Turn signal on the LHS works fine, as does the flasher. Stop light is in operative. Oddly enough, with the right turn signal activated, the LHS brake light works. Would this be an issue with the turn signal wiring, etc... and not the stop light switch. I just replaced the stop light switch with a new unit and there was no change in problem status.
All wiring from brake pedal/switch to tail lamp socket is original (yikes). 1966 coupe with manual brakes.
Anyone with any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Turn signal on the LHS works fine, as does the flasher. Stop light is in operative. Oddly enough, with the right turn signal activated, the LHS brake light works. Would this be an issue with the turn signal wiring, etc... and not the stop light switch. I just replaced the stop light switch with a new unit and there was no change in problem status.
All wiring from brake pedal/switch to tail lamp socket is original (yikes). 1966 coupe with manual brakes.
Anyone with any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry can't help you here... Damn I hate Wiring/electrical problems...especially on these old cars!!
I have a similar problem, My brake lights stay engaged, but if you turn the head lights on they brake lights go out but they stay dark, no light with headlights on.. It does other weird stuff like that.. Was told it was probably something to do with the turn signal switch [sm=dontgetit.gif]
I have a similar problem, My brake lights stay engaged, but if you turn the head lights on they brake lights go out but they stay dark, no light with headlights on.. It does other weird stuff like that.. Was told it was probably something to do with the turn signal switch [sm=dontgetit.gif]
It's your turn signal switch. Lift up slightly on the turn signal arm and check to see if the left brake light now works. If it does you need a new switch. When you activate your turn signal it cancels the brake light on that side. As your switch wears out it allows gravity to let the turn signal arm to drop just enough toward the left turn position to cancel the left brake light. Until you can replace the switch, stuff a small piece of foam under the turn signal arm where it comes out of the column. This will prevent the arm from droping down but still allow you to activate a left turn signal.
" All wiring from brake pedal/switch to tail lamp socket is original (yikes)."
That is more than likely a large part of your problem.
I feel your pain, my '66 has a lot of original wiring and I have strange things like that also.
When I press the brake pedal my park lights in the front light up. At night if I have the headlights on the turn signals don't work?
My only guess is 42 year old wiring in my case.
I replaced my headlight and alternator harnesses a while back. I found a turn signal switch and related wiring on e-bay for a really good price but have not had a chance to install that yet. It is sitting in the bag on my workbench.
Eventually, I'll get around to replacing the tail light harness and the main under dash harness.
That is more than likely a large part of your problem.
I feel your pain, my '66 has a lot of original wiring and I have strange things like that also.
When I press the brake pedal my park lights in the front light up. At night if I have the headlights on the turn signals don't work?
My only guess is 42 year old wiring in my case.
I replaced my headlight and alternator harnesses a while back. I found a turn signal switch and related wiring on e-bay for a really good price but have not had a chance to install that yet. It is sitting in the bag on my workbench.
Eventually, I'll get around to replacing the tail light harness and the main under dash harness.
ORIGINAL: SJs 66coupe
" All wiring from brake pedal/switch to tail lamp socket is original (yikes)."
That is more than likely a large part of your problem.
I feel your pain, my '66 has a lot of original wiring and I have strange things like that also.
When I press the brake pedal my park lights in the front light up. At night if I have the headlights on the turn signals don't work?
My only guess is 42 year old wiring in my case.
I replaced my headlight and alternator harnesses a while back. I found a turn signal switch and related wiring on e-bay for a really good price but have not had a chance to install that yet. It is sitting in the bag on my workbench.
Eventually, I'll get around to replacing the tail light harness and the main under dash harness.
" All wiring from brake pedal/switch to tail lamp socket is original (yikes)."
That is more than likely a large part of your problem.
I feel your pain, my '66 has a lot of original wiring and I have strange things like that also.
When I press the brake pedal my park lights in the front light up. At night if I have the headlights on the turn signals don't work?
My only guess is 42 year old wiring in my case.
I replaced my headlight and alternator harnesses a while back. I found a turn signal switch and related wiring on e-bay for a really good price but have not had a chance to install that yet. It is sitting in the bag on my workbench.
Eventually, I'll get around to replacing the tail light harness and the main under dash harness.
"A bad ground or a bad headlight switch can cause a lot of odd problems, more than just old wiring."
Couldn't agree with you more....I have a headlight switch I have been meaning to install sitting on my work bench as well.
However, in my case I noted how old and cracked and generally worn the wires were on the original headlight harness that came out of my car. Old wires like that are certain to cause strange problems related to cross wiring when things touch that shouldn't touch or things ground out, etc.
What I finally opted for is I am in the process of collecting parts and plan to replace the rest of my wiring along with some of the related switches.
I have replaced the headlight harness and did the dimmer switch as well because that was cheap and easy.
Have purchased the headlight switch and turn signal switch...just waiting for the right time to buy the under dash and tail light harnesses.
In my case, I figure if I replace it all little by little I can double check how things are wired and grounded, etc as a part of the process.
But then again....I own the car that the previous owner thought it was better to use non factory color code wires and electrical tape to jerry rig things instead of spending the money to buy the right parts. [:@]
Couldn't agree with you more....I have a headlight switch I have been meaning to install sitting on my work bench as well.

However, in my case I noted how old and cracked and generally worn the wires were on the original headlight harness that came out of my car. Old wires like that are certain to cause strange problems related to cross wiring when things touch that shouldn't touch or things ground out, etc.
What I finally opted for is I am in the process of collecting parts and plan to replace the rest of my wiring along with some of the related switches.
I have replaced the headlight harness and did the dimmer switch as well because that was cheap and easy.
Have purchased the headlight switch and turn signal switch...just waiting for the right time to buy the under dash and tail light harnesses.
In my case, I figure if I replace it all little by little I can double check how things are wired and grounded, etc as a part of the process.
But then again....I own the car that the previous owner thought it was better to use non factory color code wires and electrical tape to jerry rig things instead of spending the money to buy the right parts. [:@]
Just a few more cents worth here: Mostlight troubles are caused by the wayFord (GM, Chry)uses to ground the bulb sockets in the 60's and 70's cars. (thru direct connection of the bulb base, to the bulb socket,to the light assy, to the car's structure, to the chassis ground straps, and finally back to the negative pole of the battery). As you can see there's a whole lot of places for corrossion to affect the light operation. So not withstanding the switch wearout issues, bad grounds caused by corrosion are the predominate cause of much of electrical problems on the cars we all like way to much.
JLG
JLG
Hello everyone,
New here to this forum. Looking to see if anyone had this particular issue with regards to turn signal and brake lights.
1. Front and rear Parking lights work with light switch.
2. Front turn signals work fine
3. Left turn signal and brake light works fine
4. Read wires with multi-meter on right side at the socket receptacle. Getting approx. 3~4 VDC every turn signal click. Go to connect to tail light housing, no turn signal lights working.
5. Bulbs are good (1157).
I've read here that some fix by replacing the turn signal switch, but I'm geting juice to the receptable right before the housing. I even switched the housings to try and isolate the problem further and when doing so, still has the same discrepancy on the right side. I'm thinking it could be the actual receptacle? Please help! Thanks!
New here to this forum. Looking to see if anyone had this particular issue with regards to turn signal and brake lights.
1. Front and rear Parking lights work with light switch.
2. Front turn signals work fine
3. Left turn signal and brake light works fine
4. Read wires with multi-meter on right side at the socket receptacle. Getting approx. 3~4 VDC every turn signal click. Go to connect to tail light housing, no turn signal lights working.
5. Bulbs are good (1157).
I've read here that some fix by replacing the turn signal switch, but I'm geting juice to the receptable right before the housing. I even switched the housings to try and isolate the problem further and when doing so, still has the same discrepancy on the right side. I'm thinking it could be the actual receptacle? Please help! Thanks!
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