For a stock Mustang at 50 to 70 amps with up to 192", I would suggest 4ga wire, which is a standard. Use dry cell type battery, optima, Deka Intimidator, PC1500 made by Odyssey, just to name a couple. Aluminum batt box'sare good but I like mine to have lots of air around them because mine get hot with all the crap running on them. Grounds area big deal in the racing community, so I ground all mine in the back and the front with the same size cable that I use on the positive side. Your dealing with a 40+ year old car and the old metal is just not the same, but then again If your not driving a EFI computer and any high current ignition I don't see need to "over ground" the car. One key I'll pass on isthat the motor needs just as good of a ground as the car does..

 

Sorry, my computer is acting up....

 

Look, great deal on the cable?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18-Co...spagenameZWDVW

 

Thanks for the info LCC! This isnt going to be a full blown racer, just a weekend car perhaps,but with some cojones. I'm also not going to have many accessories. Currently all I'll have hooked up are the lights and electric radiator fan.

 

For as long as you're going to be running cable, I'd recommend 2ga. 4ga is standard for the stock 12in (if that) cable, not for a 12ft cable. Sure, 4ga will handle 70A without any problems, but it's not going to handle 300A for the starter for very long. The ground should be at least as big as the positive.

 

Although I do not have the book immediately available, there is a formula for figuring out the cable gauge for a given length and current flow. I would recommend Googling or checking out an automotive electronics book for reference. Starfury is on the right track in his thinking and I would double check with the formula just to make extra sure.

Don't take shortcuts when it comes to things that involve money and safety.

 

Ok, 1 more question on this starter solenoid. I have a 74 351W in my 67. I'll probably pick one up locally, butwhat style should I get? Here are two different ones I found on the net, the first being "1967 - 1971 Ford Mustang" and the second "68-77 Ford Mustang Mercury Cougar"

http://performance-auto-group.com/im...e/PICT0001.jpg

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sel.../15/SS-212.jpg

 

The second one is a starter-mounted solenoid, not an "electromechanical starter switch," which is the actual name of the part everybody calls a "starter solenoid." You need the first one.

And yeah, mustdoc, I was thinking of that formula, I just don't have it handy, and I'm too lazy to google it:P

 

+1 on using the same size cable for the ground as well as the battery.
Since you are going through the hassle of putting in new wire you might as well put in 2 gauge,that way you don't need to upgrade in the future.


+1 Make sure the engine to chassis is grounded. 4-8 gauge would be fine this (normally people ground the engine to the firewall with something pretty because you can see it,Braided wire or something)

 

The 1/0 will do a fine job for the pos. You can keep the ground close say less than two feet and a 4 AWG will do fine. Also if you are running a MSD or ECM, you will need to run a 12 or maybe even a 10 as a groung to the unit (just run it along side the (+) cable. A strap ground for the engine and hood is necessary also. The wire in the ad has the right specs and is the finer stranded copper, much easier to bend. A quality 4 AWG will do the work if you don't get the 1/0. Also I wouldwrap the (+) with loom and tape, use insulated grommetswhen you go thru a bulkhead. A quick disconnect is a goodoption also. Another thing I do is to use a copper ring terminal and hammer crimper (you can find these in the welding section). Oncedone, I solder the connection. This prevents corrosion form building up. Youcan put a 2" length of heat shrink on the cable first and once soldered, move it over the connection and shrink it. This yeildsvery professional job.