Automotive wire is almost always "multi-strand" - this allows it to be flexible, strong and not break.

 

Linked is the kit I use.

I don't knowaboutanything but 1 guage welding wire, it's all I've ever usedand I've never had a problem.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

And since you just need the cable...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

Here's a picture of the box in my '66.



Normally, the box is secured to the trunk floor with the same all-thread rods that will eventually secure the battery hold down that goes on top of the battery.

On your 67-68 car (I can't tell for sure from the picture), it's best to position/mount the box so that the all-thread bars go straight down through the frame rail. This ensures positive box/battery retention. If you're unable to mount the box through the frame rails, use LARGE (2.5" - 3") washers on the underside to reinforce the trunks floor pan. You don't want to use regular ole washers and risk the box/battery ripping through the metal and "bouncing around" in the trunk in the event of an accident. Sanctioning bodies normally require the box/battery to be mounted through the frame-rail.

Yes, the negative cable can be a short length attached to a solid metal point in the trunk. The passenger side inner bumper support plate is usually a great spot.

The positive cable can either be run inside the car.... by going up over the inner wheelwell and down through the passenger side rear door jamb/rocker panel and then out through either the toe-board along the kick panel or into thepassenger side wheelwell. If going into the wheelwell, the bolts that secure the fender to the fender apron can be used to add clamps onto to hold the cable up and out of the way of the tire. When routed into the wheelwell, the cable will have to get back into the engine compartment to the starter solenoid by cutting a hole in the apron. As previously mentioned, use heavy grommets wherever the cable runs through anything. In "tight areas", like where the cable enters and exits the rocker panel, I wrap the cable with a length of old inner tube and tie-tie the rubber around the cable to provide an extra layer of protection against any possible chaffing.

.... or the postive cable can be outside the car by drilling a hole in the trunks floorpan and routing the cable down through the hole and forward along the inside of the passenger side framerail. I pick up a dozen or so insulated clamps to secure the cable along this routing. I drill a hole through the floor support crossmember and route the cable through the support, rather than route it underneath it.

Here are some other pictures that I have that may help you.










If you need any detailed photos of any particular area, let me know as both cars/routings are in my shop.

Dave