Got a pic of my ground from the starter to the firewall...



[IMG]local://upfiles/19071/3CBCB55BA009436AB438AB594B011AC7.jpg[/IMG]

 

What if you run the ground from the negative terminal to the chassis, instead of running it from the negative terminal to the front of the block?

 

Bad grounds can cause a host of problems. I like the use of star washers when grounding circuits (like Ford used throughout the car). I run the ground from the battery to the chassis and then to the engine block VIA a ground strap (It needs to bethe equivalentof a 4 AWG). If you run an MSD or other spark unit, then another wire should be run from the unit to the negative side of the battery.

 

Finally got the car running again. Ran one 4 awg ground from the battery to the engine block, another from the fire wall to the engine. Both grounds use 4 awg gold connectors. Really works well, regulator does not flicker like it did before i pulled the engine. Spark is right up to par now as well. Just have to get the outside sheet metal put back on.


Thx Guys
Rob

 

I think this is going to be added onto my "to do" this list weekend...

Did you just use a switch-to-switch battery cable for the block/firewall connection?

i.e. something like this:

 

got my GROUND'S battery cable to engine block,,, and cylinder head to fireall (Braided cable )as was off the assembly line

 

Almost certainly done that way for reasons of production cost. Unless you"re going for an OE-style restoration, that"s one of the worst arrangements that you could choose, especially if you"re running aluminum heads. Reliability and long term electrical-related effects should count for more on any other kind of repair or rebuild.

I do realise that if a lot of these short cuts had not been taken by Ford that there might not be such a large Mustang community as exists today. But (except for OE-restored show cars) that"s no reason to not correct them as you go. Probably makes lessdifference in terms of overall car "character" than installing a Pertronix.


Norm

 

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