Thanks for the support evil, It will obviously be a while before I start with the actual conversion, right now I have to get the car back in decent shape but I will definitely be sending any inquiries I have through here. As for what starfury said, my buck tag on the fender apron has FD and DB stamped. Db is disk breaks and FD is front disk breaks, I though that would denote factory disk breaks all around, am i wrong? Also I was told the 9" was original but I don't have a door tag to verify so I guess it's possible it wasn't.

 

I'm not familiar with any 'buck tag', the only tags I'm aware of are the VIN and Warranty plates. In any case, no, front discs only. Rear discs were never an option. What engine code is the in the VIN? K and S were the only codes that came with a 9".

I still implore you to not hack up an original GTA car. There are hundreds of thousands of Mustangs out there that are less valuable to the collector crowd.

 

I agree with Star completely...

Rebuild this one as orginal, sell it, then build your GT500... you should have plenty of money to get a good start on it.. GTA fastbacks are so nice...

 

The buck tag is the metal plate on the driver side fender apron, it has the vin, option codes, color code, dates etc. Here's a decoder for it. http://www.ponysite.de/fmcog/to_alt/bbtd.htm Any way it's a 289 4v A code. I guess that means the 9" isn't original. But still whats the difference between the DB and FB option codes? If both mean disk breaks isn't is a little redundant to have both? There must be some difference. Also is a GTA really that rare? Isn't it just a automatic GT?

 

Yes, and GT's in themselves are rare enough to make them valuable to a collector/restorer. It's not "just a GT."

Are you sure you have a 9" and not the factory 8"? Do you know how to tell the difference? I mean no offense, it's just that the two look similar to someone who doesn't know how to tell them apart.

 

I've only had the car about a week and haven't done any measuring or anything, to be honest I don't know all the visual ques to tell the difference except for the large protrusion off center that I've been told indicates a 9". Tomorrow I'm going to go get the number off the axle tag if its still there. Is there anything on the axle tag that I can match up to the buck tag or vin to determine if it's original to the car?

 

The easy to tell if its a 9 is to see if a socket and ratchet will remove all the nuts on the dif case. On a 9, their is one that you need a wrench to take off because the socket will not go on due to the protrusion of the case. The GTA is badging fot the GT automatic, the 4 speed carried a GT badge. Their were about 450,000 units built in 67, and one of the least produced was a Vert with a bench seat (about 1200) and no one gets exicited about those. I'm not sure how many GTA's ran down the line, but I can search my books for that data. I know the production number was fairly low. Their is another document that you may find taped to the wiring harness where it crosses the steering column under the dash bezel. Its the build sheet and will add some more info, all of in fact. be care how you remove it since it will be very fragile. Its also good that you have the "Buck Tag" as most of these were removed and lost. It was screwed to the car on its way down the line and gave workers info on what to install. Don't rule out that a 9 wasn't original to the car. Someone could have ordered the car that way. I have seen too many strange combos that were according to the books that were not to exist. The 9's came in the 289 HiPo (and maybe some A codes) and may even be a "smooth back" that looks just like an 8 from the rear, also 351, 302, 351, 427, 428, and 429's had 9" rears. Anywat, have fun with whatever you decide. Most of the Shelby conversion parts are bolt on. The side scoops may require some drilling and the roll bar some welding (can be bolted in though) but even these mods can be reversed in the event that you want to convert back and go for a concours GTA, just save all the parts.

 

Can not thank you enough evil, you have all the answers. I'm gunna go see If I cant find that build sheet and try the wrench thing. As for your Shelby bolt on idea, your absolutely right. I was getting worried that I'd depreciate the value of the car if I did go that route, but seeing as i have most of the original parts I could always switch back to original and use the fiberglass on another car should I be so lucky to get one.