Engine Time - 351W Build - Need Help
Sorry for the quadruple post. I just realized im stoopid. The $700 is for one head...
Looks like Edlebrock package is a good deal after all. Any objections.
Hmm..looks like I will be saving for a lot longer now. Unless of course I can drive with only one head.
Looks like Edlebrock package is a good deal after all. Any objections.
Hmm..looks like I will be saving for a lot longer now. Unless of course I can drive with only one head.
Wow man. Chill a little and let guys have time to post
.
Suggestions
1. Hypo pistons are good if you do not ever want to run a power adder. If you do want the option at some point, you will need 4340 crank, 4340 rods, and good forged pistons. If you are not, then a budget setup should be great.
2. I like my roller cam setup from CompCams. If you are not going to try and make big big power or spin it very high, a hydraulic roller setup would work great. I also like Comps roller rockers. Think roller and you will have far fewer problems with cam break in or frictional power loss.
3. Igntion...I love my MSD stuff. I have a MSD dizzy, 6AL, and coil. It works great.
4. Think long tube headers and 2.5-3" mandrel exhaust pipe. It will eliminate power issues from your exhaust
5. I prefer Holley carbs. They make a nice 650 four barrel with vac secondaries and choke that would work great for you. Do not go any bigger than 650 with a straight up 351CID
6. I like the performance of my AFR heads, but I am currently having to have them rebuilt after 2000 miles because of ****ty valves. I hear good things about the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. They flow good, have good velocity and are the right size for your motor. The regular performer stuff is not going work nearly as well on a 351 as the RPM stuff.
7. Intakes...I love my RPM Air Gap. If you cannot use it because of height issues (mine fits with 1/4" to spare), stay with a decent dual plane. A single plane will give you more horsepower, but you are going to loose your bottom end so traffic is going to suck!
8. Hardware...Get as much ARP stuff as you can afford. They are the best, but they are expensive. My stroker has $2000-2500 of ARP in it.
If I think of anything else, I will post later, but this should get you started.
. Suggestions
1. Hypo pistons are good if you do not ever want to run a power adder. If you do want the option at some point, you will need 4340 crank, 4340 rods, and good forged pistons. If you are not, then a budget setup should be great.
2. I like my roller cam setup from CompCams. If you are not going to try and make big big power or spin it very high, a hydraulic roller setup would work great. I also like Comps roller rockers. Think roller and you will have far fewer problems with cam break in or frictional power loss.
3. Igntion...I love my MSD stuff. I have a MSD dizzy, 6AL, and coil. It works great.
4. Think long tube headers and 2.5-3" mandrel exhaust pipe. It will eliminate power issues from your exhaust
5. I prefer Holley carbs. They make a nice 650 four barrel with vac secondaries and choke that would work great for you. Do not go any bigger than 650 with a straight up 351CID
6. I like the performance of my AFR heads, but I am currently having to have them rebuilt after 2000 miles because of ****ty valves. I hear good things about the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. They flow good, have good velocity and are the right size for your motor. The regular performer stuff is not going work nearly as well on a 351 as the RPM stuff.
7. Intakes...I love my RPM Air Gap. If you cannot use it because of height issues (mine fits with 1/4" to spare), stay with a decent dual plane. A single plane will give you more horsepower, but you are going to loose your bottom end so traffic is going to suck!
8. Hardware...Get as much ARP stuff as you can afford. They are the best, but they are expensive. My stroker has $2000-2500 of ARP in it.
If I think of anything else, I will post later, but this should get you started.
Suggestions
1. Hypo pistons are good if you do not ever want to run a power adder. If you do want the option at some point, you will need 4340 crank, 4340 rods, and good forged pistons. If you are not, then a budget setup should be great.
I was thinking maybe some turbos down the road, say a few years. Excuse my ignorance, 4340? forge?
2. I like my roller cam setup from CompCams. If you are not going to try and make big big power or spin it very high, a hydraulic roller setup would work great. I also like Comps roller rockers. Think roller and you will have far fewer problems with cam break in or frictional power loss.
I might be receiving a job offer from HP soon, so this may be possible.
3. Igntion...I love my MSD stuff. I have a MSD dizzy, 6AL, and coil. It works great.
4. Think long tube headers and 2.5-3" mandrel exhaust pipe. It will eliminate power issues from your exhaust
Wont this create grounds clearance issues? The streets around here have recently been redone, and they suck for low clearance cars.
5. I prefer Holley carbs. They make a nice 650 four barrel with vac secondaries and choke that would work great for you. Do not go any bigger than 650 with a straight up 351CID
Thats exactly what I was thinking.
6. I like the performance of my AFR heads, but I am currently having to have them rebuilt after 2000 miles because of ****ty valves. I hear good things about the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. They flow good, have good velocity and are the right size for your motor. The regular performer stuff is not going work nearly as well on a 351 as the RPM stuff.
7. Intakes...I love my RPM Air Gap. If you cannot use it because of height issues (mine fits with 1/4" to spare), stay with a decent dual plane. A single plane will give you more horsepower, but you are going to loose your bottom end so traffic is going to suck!
8. Hardware...Get as much ARP stuff as you can afford. They are the best, but they are expensive. My stroker has $2000-2500 of ARP in it.
If I think of anything else, I will post later, but this should get you started.
Oh wow, I cant afford that much ARP, lol. What would be the main ones to get? Like heads, and....i have no idea.
1. Hypo pistons are good if you do not ever want to run a power adder. If you do want the option at some point, you will need 4340 crank, 4340 rods, and good forged pistons. If you are not, then a budget setup should be great.
I was thinking maybe some turbos down the road, say a few years. Excuse my ignorance, 4340? forge?
2. I like my roller cam setup from CompCams. If you are not going to try and make big big power or spin it very high, a hydraulic roller setup would work great. I also like Comps roller rockers. Think roller and you will have far fewer problems with cam break in or frictional power loss.
I might be receiving a job offer from HP soon, so this may be possible.
3. Igntion...I love my MSD stuff. I have a MSD dizzy, 6AL, and coil. It works great.
4. Think long tube headers and 2.5-3" mandrel exhaust pipe. It will eliminate power issues from your exhaust
Wont this create grounds clearance issues? The streets around here have recently been redone, and they suck for low clearance cars.
5. I prefer Holley carbs. They make a nice 650 four barrel with vac secondaries and choke that would work great for you. Do not go any bigger than 650 with a straight up 351CID
Thats exactly what I was thinking.
6. I like the performance of my AFR heads, but I am currently having to have them rebuilt after 2000 miles because of ****ty valves. I hear good things about the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. They flow good, have good velocity and are the right size for your motor. The regular performer stuff is not going work nearly as well on a 351 as the RPM stuff.
7. Intakes...I love my RPM Air Gap. If you cannot use it because of height issues (mine fits with 1/4" to spare), stay with a decent dual plane. A single plane will give you more horsepower, but you are going to loose your bottom end so traffic is going to suck!
8. Hardware...Get as much ARP stuff as you can afford. They are the best, but they are expensive. My stroker has $2000-2500 of ARP in it.
If I think of anything else, I will post later, but this should get you started.
Oh wow, I cant afford that much ARP, lol. What would be the main ones to get? Like heads, and....i have no idea.
If I were you I would by the bottom end from jegs or summit. Machine shops seem to like to add a couple dollars to every part you purchase from them so they can make some extra cash. Atleast around my area they do. I went with the edelbrock kit, msd everything, and 10 to 1 kb pistons. When all was said and done it ran about 5000 to 6000 grand to build. I would go with forged pistons, to add some nitrous later on because 400hp at the crank gets boring very quickly if you go with the edel kit.
1. If you are going to use power adders, you need MUCH stronger parts. 4340 alloy steel is strong stuff which is MUCH better than the old cast crap. Cast or Hyperutectic are fine for stock stuff but will crack, shatter, and distroy your engine with power adders. That is why forged pistosn are a must.
4. Long tube headers can done on a classic mustang if you do a little research. Not all headers will clear the clutch linkage, etc. I have hooker headers and they are very tucked. Granted my old headers hung low, but not the Hooker's.
8. I would start with rod bolts, head studs, rocker studs, and intake bolts. That should only be a few hundred. More than likely your main cap bolts will come with the block, but you will probably want new bolts for that if the block is used.
4. Long tube headers can done on a classic mustang if you do a little research. Not all headers will clear the clutch linkage, etc. I have hooker headers and they are very tucked. Granted my old headers hung low, but not the Hooker's.
8. I would start with rod bolts, head studs, rocker studs, and intake bolts. That should only be a few hundred. More than likely your main cap bolts will come with the block, but you will probably want new bolts for that if the block is used.
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