need a new radiator.
Copper is better and will last years longer, but if cooing system isn't abused and it's maintained right, alum will last many years also. Copper is also a better heat conductor.
Also, downflow is better than cross. Electric fans can be noisy when idling in some cars. If your cooing system works great with the crank fan, why add an electric?
I have a 3 row Modine copper and brass rad with a 302. I've sat in bumper-to-bumper on the 15 in the desert 115°F and the needle never went to half. I have a stock crank fan. I use an aftermarket tranny cooler, but the effect that that has on the motor temp is miniscule.
I haven't gotten around to it, but I am going to install a top hose see through filter. It keeps rust out of your rad, and they're washable. It will get better flow, work cooler, and the rad will last longer. There's only so many times the cores can be cleaned before they start to get holes.
Using less than 50% coolant is also a rust accelerator. If your top and bottom hoses don't look really new, change 'em when you install the new one.
Good luck, 390BB.
CP
Also, downflow is better than cross. Electric fans can be noisy when idling in some cars. If your cooing system works great with the crank fan, why add an electric?
I have a 3 row Modine copper and brass rad with a 302. I've sat in bumper-to-bumper on the 15 in the desert 115°F and the needle never went to half. I have a stock crank fan. I use an aftermarket tranny cooler, but the effect that that has on the motor temp is miniscule.
I haven't gotten around to it, but I am going to install a top hose see through filter. It keeps rust out of your rad, and they're washable. It will get better flow, work cooler, and the rad will last longer. There's only so many times the cores can be cleaned before they start to get holes.
Using less than 50% coolant is also a rust accelerator. If your top and bottom hoses don't look really new, change 'em when you install the new one.
Good luck, 390BB.
CP
I just went to my local radiator shop and ordered it. They should ask all the questions to get the right model for you - have A/C? modified engine? etc.. I bought mine 11 or 12 years ago so I don't know what they sell for now.
VirginiaClassicMustang.com (540-896-2695) sells a '67-'70 390/428 Bracket Mount-3 row radiator....$310. I don't know who makes that one or what the warranty is but they are very nice to deal with and can answer any questions you have.
VirginiaClassicMustang.com (540-896-2695) sells a '67-'70 390/428 Bracket Mount-3 row radiator....$310. I don't know who makes that one or what the warranty is but they are very nice to deal with and can answer any questions you have.
CP
Actually for the same number of cores and fins per inch, copper and brass will dissipate more heat than aluminum. Not much more but copper is a better heat conductor than aluminum. AL is lighter and looks far better in hot rods. Good 4 core high fin density copper radiators do exist. Copper is also easier to repair if nicked or a pinhole develops they can be soldered, al can only be epoxy filled which seldom holds up long in heat cool cycles. Trade offs in every thing I guess but better to know the answers that you are choosing from.
Definitely stay away from the "bonded" epoxy core aluminum radiators if possible, they do have issues down the road. Good luck with your choice, keep your coolant clean and run a good stock fan with a properly functioning fan-clutch and you'll be happy. 180 is a good thermostat temp, and see about getting a high-flow "cup-style" thermostat.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Derf00
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
3
Oct 24, 2005 08:56 PM




