Kalli, here is a chart that may explain how water works better than antifreeze. The addition of the enhancers will help the cooling ability even more. On my track car, I was able to reduce then tempature by 10* with "Redline" water wetter. The bad thing is, they offer little or no protection from freezing as compared to antifreeze. A lot of racers use water with a enhancer. Also, the boiling point of water is increased when under pressure. Heres some great info on the physical properties of coolents and how they work.

http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0011.html

 

thanks a million evil. that's all news to me. Didn't want to take your post away from original discussion. Great writeup on the storage. Should help all.

tip #9: use the grease gun. a lot

Kalli

 

Your right, greese can dry out. I'll go back and add that. I was wacking on the keys why my wife was yacking and I missed that.

 

Excellent write up, particularly on the f'rodent part. Even on jackstands, they will scurry right up the stand. Farging bastiges, chewed my wiring once. Only once. Got a cat. Cat peed on my backseat. Only once.

 

No storage for my car, but when I winterize boats, I usually fog the engine with fogging oil and or will run a light (1:100) 2 stroke mix to give all the fuel and engine components a light oil film. Is it not recommended for cars?

With gas, be sure to run your car a little after adding stabilizer to it so that it is 'preserved' all the way to the carb. Also top it off with non EtOH based gasses.

 

Is it not recommended to drain the gas tank? I'm about on 'E' now and figured I'd just let er run for 30min till she died then wheel her into the garage to rot for the next 5 months

 

IMO filling the gas tank after putting the proper amt of fuel stabilizer is better protection from rust on the interior portion of the gas tank itself. Moisture can get into everywhere including the fuel system - run the car for a bit (drive home from gas station or 10-20 min at idle) to run some of that fuel stabil into the fuel system itself.

I use the battery tender plus and it can be left on the battery until needed next season and it will keep the battery in optimal condition until needed. I leave the battery in and hooked up but thats for the S197 and not the 69. The S197 has a tune and computers so I use the battery tender to preserve the battery. Works great and never had rodents the many yrs I have stored cars in the past. I live in the burbs and use some trans fluid or coolant in a dish for the rodents to drank and eventually die later on. If you have kids or dogs it is not recommended!

Plastic will protect the undercarriage but I have the floor epoxied (3 coats) and is a great vapor barrier (worked for the last 3 yrs so far).

Check tire pressure frequently as temp changes can cause the air loss. I start the car once a month and if clear and dry out go for a spirited drive (after properly warmed) to force out the condensation formed when starting the car and letting it sit at idle. If not the precip will sit and eat at the exhaust.

Depending on the climate your storing the car in the winter -humidity will drop more in the winter than in the summer or spring. I worry more about surface rust in the spring/ summer than I ever do in the fall/ winter. JMO

 

The problem with humidity is when the weather goes from cold and dry to warm and wet. If you don't have an airtight garage to prevent air changes condensation forms on the colder surfaces both inside and out.
I've found that keeping a few 150 watt bulbs burning in the garage seems to greatly lessen the effect.