rebuilding rear end
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
It's good that you have someone experienced to watch over your shoulder. It's not an incredibly difficult task, but you have to have the right tools and be dead nuts perfect or you'll burn out the rear end prematurely.
There are a couple types of differentials you can pick from.
1) Limited slip (LS). This type of rear uses clutch plates and springs to send power to both wheels. When one wheel tries to spin faster than the other (like during cornering), the plates slip. When you're going straight, the plates stay locked to keep both tires spinning. This design includes Traction Loc (Ford's OE design), Posi (GM's design), and Auburn, which is a superior design that uses cone clutches instead of clutch plates to give a larger clutch surface area for improved traction and smoother transition from locked to unlocked. Limited slip differentials are good for street driving because the smooth transition from locked to unlocked usually keeps you pointed in the right direction.
2) Lockers. This design uses meshed teeth and springs to keep both axles locked together. When you go around a corner, the action of one tire trying to spin faster than the other separates the teeth, unlocking the diff and allowing the tires to spin at different speeds. This design is stronger than a LS unit because it uses teeth rather than clutches that can burn out, making it ideal for street/strip cars (with an emphasis on strip). However, it's much more finicky on the street. Almost all lockers make a LOT of noise while going around slow corners. You usually hear slight tire squeal along with 'click-click-click-click-BANG!' which is rather disconcerting if you're not used to it. They're also not very safe in poor weather conditions. Since the transition between locked and unlocked is instant and violent, stepping on the gas in a corner with low traction can send you spinning off to the side of the road if you're not careful.
3) Worm gear drive torque-sensing differentials. This includes Torsen (the company that invented them, iirc) and Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac. This design is what I'd recommend for most street cars (and what I'm going to use on my car in the future to road race with). Instead of having clutches or teeth, the differential uses a worm gear assembly to instantly transfer torque to the wheel with the most traction. While you're going straight, it acts like an open differential. When you go around a corner or break traction with one wheel, it acts like a LS, except faster and smoother. The torque transfer transition is instantaneous and seamless, so you don't get the violent locking and unlocking of a locker unit. And since it doesn't use clutches, it won't burn out like a Traction Loc or an Auburn. It is still slightly finicky in low-traction situations, but no more than a LS diff. The only downside to the TrueTrac is that it acts as an open differential if you have no traction at one wheel. If you lift one wheel off the ground or place it on an icy surface, that wheel will spin and the diff won't send any torque to the other wheel. This isn't a problem for most people, but in the cases where it is, Torsen offers differentials with a preload to make sure that both wheels are spinning in this circumstance.
There are a couple types of differentials you can pick from.
1) Limited slip (LS). This type of rear uses clutch plates and springs to send power to both wheels. When one wheel tries to spin faster than the other (like during cornering), the plates slip. When you're going straight, the plates stay locked to keep both tires spinning. This design includes Traction Loc (Ford's OE design), Posi (GM's design), and Auburn, which is a superior design that uses cone clutches instead of clutch plates to give a larger clutch surface area for improved traction and smoother transition from locked to unlocked. Limited slip differentials are good for street driving because the smooth transition from locked to unlocked usually keeps you pointed in the right direction.
2) Lockers. This design uses meshed teeth and springs to keep both axles locked together. When you go around a corner, the action of one tire trying to spin faster than the other separates the teeth, unlocking the diff and allowing the tires to spin at different speeds. This design is stronger than a LS unit because it uses teeth rather than clutches that can burn out, making it ideal for street/strip cars (with an emphasis on strip). However, it's much more finicky on the street. Almost all lockers make a LOT of noise while going around slow corners. You usually hear slight tire squeal along with 'click-click-click-click-BANG!' which is rather disconcerting if you're not used to it. They're also not very safe in poor weather conditions. Since the transition between locked and unlocked is instant and violent, stepping on the gas in a corner with low traction can send you spinning off to the side of the road if you're not careful.
3) Worm gear drive torque-sensing differentials. This includes Torsen (the company that invented them, iirc) and Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac. This design is what I'd recommend for most street cars (and what I'm going to use on my car in the future to road race with). Instead of having clutches or teeth, the differential uses a worm gear assembly to instantly transfer torque to the wheel with the most traction. While you're going straight, it acts like an open differential. When you go around a corner or break traction with one wheel, it acts like a LS, except faster and smoother. The torque transfer transition is instantaneous and seamless, so you don't get the violent locking and unlocking of a locker unit. And since it doesn't use clutches, it won't burn out like a Traction Loc or an Auburn. It is still slightly finicky in low-traction situations, but no more than a LS diff. The only downside to the TrueTrac is that it acts as an open differential if you have no traction at one wheel. If you lift one wheel off the ground or place it on an icy surface, that wheel will spin and the diff won't send any torque to the other wheel. This isn't a problem for most people, but in the cases where it is, Torsen offers differentials with a preload to make sure that both wheels are spinning in this circumstance.
Thread Starter
America ftw
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,261
From: ca
It's good that you have someone experienced to watch over your shoulder. It's not an incredibly difficult task, but you have to have the right tools and be dead nuts perfect or you'll burn out the rear end prematurely.
There are a couple types of differentials you can pick from.
1) Limited slip (LS). This type of rear uses clutch plates and springs to send power to both wheels. When one wheel tries to spin faster than the other (like during cornering), the plates slip. When you're going straight, the plates stay locked to keep both tires spinning. This design includes Traction Loc (Ford's OE design), Posi (GM's design), and Auburn, which is a superior design that uses cone clutches instead of clutch plates to give a larger clutch surface area for improved traction and smoother transition from locked to unlocked. Limited slip differentials are good for street driving because the smooth transition from locked to unlocked usually keeps you pointed in the right direction.
2) Lockers. This design uses meshed teeth and springs to keep both axles locked together. When you go around a corner, the action of one tire trying to spin faster than the other separates the teeth, unlocking the diff and allowing the tires to spin at different speeds. This design is stronger than a LS unit because it uses teeth rather than clutches that can burn out, making it ideal for street/strip cars (with an emphasis on strip). However, it's much more finicky on the street. Almost all lockers make a LOT of noise while going around slow corners. You usually hear slight tire squeal along with 'click-click-click-click-BANG!' which is rather disconcerting if you're not used to it. They're also not very safe in poor weather conditions. Since the transition between locked and unlocked is instant and violent, stepping on the gas in a corner with low traction can send you spinning off to the side of the road if you're not careful.
3) Worm gear drive torque-sensing differentials. This includes Torsen (the company that invented them, iirc) and Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac. This design is what I'd recommend for most street cars (and what I'm going to use on my car in the future to road race with). Instead of having clutches or teeth, the differential uses a worm gear assembly to instantly transfer torque to the wheel with the most traction. While you're going straight, it acts like an open differential. When you go around a corner or break traction with one wheel, it acts like a LS, except faster and smoother. The torque transfer transition is instantaneous and seamless, so you don't get the violent locking and unlocking of a locker unit. And since it doesn't use clutches, it won't burn out like a Traction Loc or an Auburn. It is still slightly finicky in low-traction situations, but no more than a LS diff. The only downside to the TrueTrac is that it acts as an open differential if you have no traction at one wheel. If you lift one wheel off the ground or place it on an icy surface, that wheel will spin and the diff won't send any torque to the other wheel. This isn't a problem for most people, but in the cases where it is, Torsen offers differentials with a preload to make sure that both wheels are spinning in this circumstance.
There are a couple types of differentials you can pick from.
1) Limited slip (LS). This type of rear uses clutch plates and springs to send power to both wheels. When one wheel tries to spin faster than the other (like during cornering), the plates slip. When you're going straight, the plates stay locked to keep both tires spinning. This design includes Traction Loc (Ford's OE design), Posi (GM's design), and Auburn, which is a superior design that uses cone clutches instead of clutch plates to give a larger clutch surface area for improved traction and smoother transition from locked to unlocked. Limited slip differentials are good for street driving because the smooth transition from locked to unlocked usually keeps you pointed in the right direction.
2) Lockers. This design uses meshed teeth and springs to keep both axles locked together. When you go around a corner, the action of one tire trying to spin faster than the other separates the teeth, unlocking the diff and allowing the tires to spin at different speeds. This design is stronger than a LS unit because it uses teeth rather than clutches that can burn out, making it ideal for street/strip cars (with an emphasis on strip). However, it's much more finicky on the street. Almost all lockers make a LOT of noise while going around slow corners. You usually hear slight tire squeal along with 'click-click-click-click-BANG!' which is rather disconcerting if you're not used to it. They're also not very safe in poor weather conditions. Since the transition between locked and unlocked is instant and violent, stepping on the gas in a corner with low traction can send you spinning off to the side of the road if you're not careful.
3) Worm gear drive torque-sensing differentials. This includes Torsen (the company that invented them, iirc) and Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac. This design is what I'd recommend for most street cars (and what I'm going to use on my car in the future to road race with). Instead of having clutches or teeth, the differential uses a worm gear assembly to instantly transfer torque to the wheel with the most traction. While you're going straight, it acts like an open differential. When you go around a corner or break traction with one wheel, it acts like a LS, except faster and smoother. The torque transfer transition is instantaneous and seamless, so you don't get the violent locking and unlocking of a locker unit. And since it doesn't use clutches, it won't burn out like a Traction Loc or an Auburn. It is still slightly finicky in low-traction situations, but no more than a LS diff. The only downside to the TrueTrac is that it acts as an open differential if you have no traction at one wheel. If you lift one wheel off the ground or place it on an icy surface, that wheel will spin and the diff won't send any torque to the other wheel. This isn't a problem for most people, but in the cases where it is, Torsen offers differentials with a preload to make sure that both wheels are spinning in this circumstance.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,035
From: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
The only downside to the TrueTrac is that it acts as an open differential if you have no traction at one wheel. If you lift one wheel off the ground or place it on an icy surface, that wheel will spin and the diff won't send any torque to the other wheel. This isn't a problem for most people, but in the cases where it is, Torsen offers differentials with a preload to make sure that both wheels are spinning in this circumstance.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
I haven't seen a TrueTrac model with a preload. To my knowledge, all of the Eaton units act like open diffs on ice. Granted, I haven't looked at their lineup in a while, so I could be wrong. We could always try to get one of the guys here with one to jack up a wheel and see what happens.
I saw Torsen diffs around years ago, and I'm under the impression that they invented the design. They're big with the late model and import market. They also cost a lot more than the Eaton version.
I saw Torsen diffs around years ago, and I'm under the impression that they invented the design. They're big with the late model and import market. They also cost a lot more than the Eaton version.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
musnicki
Classic Mustang General Discussion
8
Sep 23, 2015 07:11 AM
Dragonus18
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
8
Sep 9, 2015 01:21 AM
