Any ideas on the benefits of "dyno tuning" a 1967 351C ?? The dyno places I've called here in Houston don't tune non-efi engines. Any ideas on a place that does... and does it benefit me to perform this? The minimum would be I would know how many horses my engine puts out, I will just wondering if dyno tuning is worth it. Thanks.

 

Is it an old, tired, and/or stock engine or is recently rebuilt, warmed up, and/or performance oriented engine?

And since there wasn't a 1967 351c I will assume you have a 1967 mustang with a 351c that someone installed in it.

 

You're correct... It's a 351c dropped into a 67. It's recently rebuilt and slightly modified (pistons,cam,balanced,headers. I did not do the work). I do not know the horsepower output but am curious.

 

Not sure what part of Houston your on, but give these guys a call. 99% sure they will tune carbs.

http://www.advancedracingdynamics.com/pages/Home.html

 

If anything, go shoot the bull and look at they're cars. They had a few +1000hp beauty's sitting around not to long ago.

 

Even an "efi only" shop can put your car on the dyno, they just won't tune it but you can get an idea of power levels.

Many shops will also let you tune your own car and rent you the dyno. It is relatively easy to change jets in the carb and adjust timing and find out what is giving you power gains when working right on the dyno. Who built your motor? Motor builders usually can recommend a dyno shop.

 

Good catch Dodge on the '69 Clev.

As for tuning, you will probably get the most out of tuning with a AFR meter either on the road or on a dyno. Getting the primary jetting, secondary jetting, idle mixture, accelerator pump, accelerator jets, accelerator cams, and power valve all right is a function of looking at the AFR while under a load and at different throttle positions and conditions. Tuning against the AFR is very beneficial for both running fuel efficient as well as hitting an optimum AFR for performance (i.e. torque/hp). 14.7 air to fuel is the ratio at which all the fuel is burned and all the air is used aka stoichiometric ratio. That being said, the stoichiometric ratio or very slightly above it is probably your best fuel efficiency ratio (you do not want to get very lean because it is act like a blow torch and burn pistons). Usually the best performance is obtained at 15-20% rich. This would be in the 12.5 range. Most people shoot for mid 14s while cruising and 12-13 when you romp on the throttle.

Now after the AFR is set, there is a whole slew of timing things that can be done to help performance also. Initial timing, total advance, and the advance curve are all things to be tweaked.

This can all be done on a dyno, but it can also be done on the road with something like the Innovative Motorsports LM2. I would think many hardcore raceshops would do this for you because they are still running Dominators on their cars. If they do not, and they are hung up on the EFI foxbodies and newer Cameros, they probably don't remember how a carb works! Keep looking. I know of at least three places in San Antonio that do just what you are talking about. If the people you talk with say EFI only, keep looking. Is it beneficial, absolutely! You have have a 350hp motor that is killing itself lean or drowning itself rich and only making 250hp.

 

Great Stuff.... thank you. I contacted Advanced Racing Dynamics here in Houston. They do dyno tuning for engines with carburetors (he prefers Holleys). I have an appointment for next Friday. Will keep ya'll updated on the results... and thanks again... for the recommendation and the info. Cheers.

 

No problem

 

Make sure you put what ever gas you want to tune with in the car. Sounds stupid, but some folks do not think it through before spending the money have someone tune for them. They may be able to get a few horses more with 93 than 87, but take it with a full tank of whatever you want to run normally. If you have then tune at 93 but run 87, you may have pinging problems. If you have then tune at 87 but put 93 in, you may have lean issues and be buying expensive gas while not utilizing the extra octane capacity.