If your shock towers have sagged you may have trouble getting a fixed length bar to fit. On my previous mustang, not my current project, I had to use a hydraulic jack to force the shock towers apart in order to get the bar to fit. If you get a fixed length bar and it won't go in, don't blame the manufacturer because it is probably the same situation. That said, I would still go with the fixed length bar because that is how far apart the shock towers are SUPPOSED to be anyway. The adjustable bars will allow you to maintain what you have now due to their adjustability if you want to go that route.

 

What are you car's handling nightmares? A Monte Bar will help stiffen up the front end and give you more predicable suspension travel, but it is not the second coming. You mention caster issues. That is going to be dependent on your strut arms, control arms, and bushing. If anything, I would thing the Monte would help with camber some, but probably not caster. Maybe Norm or Daze, the suspension gurus can confirm.

Edit: I read your earlier thread. As discussed then, it sounds like you need new front suspension components to achieve your goals. Again, a Monte Bar will help support the shock towers, but they are not going to fix bump steer or worn out suspension components. They are a good thing to have, I just want to set you expectations of what your $100 is going to achieve.

 

+1

Mont carlo bars are great for unibody cars (although you should get an export brace first), but it's not going to magically fix a worn suspension. If you're having handling problems, aside from the understeer typical of a stock front end, you need to figure out why first.

 

Agreed..you need to install an export brace if you do not already have one before or with a Monte Bar. If you are looking for adjustability, take a look at Total Control Products (TCP). They are expensive, but have adjustable suspension components including adjustable export and monte bars.

 

I agree with both comments above. You need an export brace before a monte carlo bar. But before any on that good solid front end componants are essential. The other quick fix for a 65/6 car with caster issues is to put 67 strut rods on it. They will bolt on and are adjustable unlike the 65/6 strut rods. So if the caster will not come into specs by using the shims in the upper A arms, it can be adjusted with the 67 adjustable strut rods.

 

109jb, thanks, i'll have to check the distance and see what kind of work would be needed to install a fixed bar.

UrbanCowboy, you're right, I definitely do need all new suspension components, and after talking to JamesW and FakeSnake it sounds like I know what I need. I did my springs and shocks and though it stiffened up the ride and turnability it's worse when crusing. I feel like i'm gonna swerve right into the car next to me.

I still don't know why the alignment shop told me that without adjustable strut rods I couldn't achieve anywhere near +1.5 degrees of caster. They told me that my upper control arms were shot also but I don't visually see anything wrong with them.

Starfury, I see these aftermarket exportbraces..... and it looks real similar to what came stock in the car. Is it just the way that they're shaped that makes them so much better than what Ford put in?

 

See, now I have never heard this before. And you can run these on 66 style control arms?

 

How does the rubber look in the insulators on your arms? You know those poly kits really do help allot. I was suprised when I installed one in my 66. It really felt crisp in the wheel when I made turns and such. I didn't notice it before but when I made somewhat quick merges or turns there was some lag time between the wheel and wheels before the car actually moved over.
Now (before I sold it) with the poly bushings it fairly well zipped over and didn't rock or teeter/sway side to side so much when I did so. Like if I wanted to merge quickly into another lane, depending on which direction I'd turn it felt like the car was tilting the opposite directon. Also the car didn't squeak when I pushed the front end up and down anymore. Those poly kits are pretty good, getting the old rubber out is the worst part but if you have a good electric drill and a good drill bit you can drill out enough of the old rubber to where your parts will come right out. Specifically that pivot point for the lower spring mount on the control arm....those can be a PITA but drilling them out makes it a breeze.

 

Dude if thats the case that would be a great upgrade for you regardless. I didn't know this either

See if you have a junkyard nearby with a 67-68 pony in it you can rob these parts from.

 

Now that's surprising, I would have figured just the opposite. Good to hear though. Do you know of any control arms that have poly bushings already installed? I know you can buy just the bare bone arms themselves and pack them yourself.... I also have heard of PST products that have polygraphite bushings in them but noone on the site has seemed to have any experience with those.