When I drive on the freeway or street at a cruising speed and my tires come in contact with anything of a different level such as the ever so slightly raised lane markers , my entire car wants to pull toward whatever it came in contact with. Likewise if I am cruising and I want to change lanes and turn the wheel, if I touch the lane markers it wants to shoot me back into the lane I was in. It's really frustrating and takes all the fun out of driving. The weird thing is that it sometimes is God Awful, and sometimes is nonexistent. When I have other people in the car, I pray that my car is having a good day.

 

Thery are just naturally slick (and I also greased the bolts and housings too) and dont really create alot of friction.

No not really......why, are yours cracked or something? If your going to take them off you might as well just reuse them and save a bill or two by changing the bushings only. Are your ball joints bad?

 

Hey...you need a steering stabilizer too. Dont know if you know what that is or not but basically its a shock absorber mounted horizontally to your crossmember and tie rod.
You must have manual steering. It sounds like it. Do you have allot of slop in your steering?

 

what ford put in are two flimsy bars. they both go from a weak area in the firewall to the shock tower. each of them.
The export brace is a one-piece design that is a _lot_ stronger. the bars can move less on their own and the material is stronger (probably thicker material, deeper bends).
together with the MC bar you will get a nice solid triangle that wasn't even there before.

The flimsy stock bars look like someone completely forgot about them, was wondering why it's unsafe to drive this car and added two match-sticks

Kalli

 

I agree about the export brace. In fact, I think that the Mustangs should have come factory this way. The factory 2 peice export design is lousy.

The monte carlo bar should be second to the export brace. I would personally install both.

I would get the regular solid one not the adjustable one. This way it retains the factory geometry of the car.

 

My car did that too. I discovered that is was being caused by my bias ply tires. When I switched to to radials that problem basically went away. What type of tires do you have? Bias Ply, b/c of how they are made, are greatly affected by uneven surfaces. Worn tierods, drag link, pitman arm, and other suspension components can also cause that. I replaced my tie rods, all PS parts, and gear box. Nothing helped until I switched to radials.

 

It sounds to me like time for a total front end rebuild. I just did my new 67 with a kit from CJ Pony and I think it was only about $225. It was Upper and lower A arms with ball joints, strut rod and sway bar bushings along with spring saddles. Typically when an alignment shop says your upper A arm are worn out they are talking about the bushings where the A arm bolts to the shock tower.

BTW the 67 strut rod things does work well but it is 67 only. 68 will not work. They change the style of strut rod in 68.

 

All three of you fellows are smart, resourceful and knowledgeable, but I respectfully disagree with the assessment that an export brace is required before a bar.

The bar completes a triangle, the brace is only a V mounted to sheet metal.

It seems to me that a triangle would resist flexing and is a stronger configuration from an engineering standpoint than a V.

I think the bar should come before a brace, and also that the curved bars are inherently weak and too easily flexed.

 

The export brace DOES create triangles all by itself. The triangles are rear apron, firewall, and brace. There is a triangle on each rear corner of the engine compartment. I am with the guys that say export brace first them monte carlo bar. The angled braces of the Export brace are going to do a whole lot more to stiffen up the front end than a single bar going straight across the engine bay all by itself. In the sketches below, which rectangle will be more resistant to racking out of square.

 

Well, with the stock "export brace" already in place the addition of a MC bar would triangulate the front end. It won't be the best but it will be triangulated. IT will be much stronger and the stock "export brace" would flex much less with the addition of the MC bar. I can see Oxnard's point and agree but only if a better export brace is in the works.