I always use a load leveler its a lot easy to get it to line up prefect the old carb plate you need some long pray bars and end up teaching it who's boss.I always take the headers off lay them in the car with bungie cords holding them in place.The alt ac etc etc i take off less things to get it stuck on or to hit on.You always want the flywheel/clutch or flexplate on it so you can bolt the tranny up easy.

 

Nassaubayman,

That load leveler you have pictured is what I was talking about. I just bought one.

Thanks for the input JamesW.

I am going to do what Starfury suggested. It seem like the best way to attatch the chains.

Whats wrong with Gatorback belts from Goodyear? I actually like them. I only like Gatorback and Dayco Polycog I think is what its called. I have had Gates and others that didn't have the cross pattern and they all made noise when it was cold and wet, or sometimes just wet. These two belts are quiet and work well. They also last for a decent amount of time.

ThanksDad,

There is nothing wrong with your I6. Mine was an I6 for years. I drove it back in high school 10-15 years ago and still had a great time with the 200.

109JB,

I agree thats probably why they state not to use the carb plate to lift it. I was also thinking that maybe it was because of the aluminum intake. I'm sure there is nothing to worry about with a cast iron intake, but the aluminum is not as strong. At least I wouldn't think it is.

Andrewmp6,

The things you mentioned all make good sense to me.

 

definetly get rid off the radiator in car and fan on the engine before putting it in. way more room.
it seems most people drop in the engine together with the transmission. I put the engine in using a hoist with a belt wrapped around the engine and then put in the transmission. It was easier for me as I had friends helping and they have a pit (easy for pushing on the trans)

 

Man having a pit would be cool. That would give all kinds of room for the trans to be installed with the motor.

The radiator is gone. I am installing a new one after the motor is in. Same with the fan. Good point though.

 

In my experience, and in the experience of most of the techs I know in town (I work at Napa), Gatorback belts are pieces of crap. They crack and come apart much faster than a properly installed standard ribbed belt. Explain how reducing the contact surface area of the belt while at the same time decreasing its structural rigidity could possibly be good? Assuming your tensioner is good and all of your pulleys are ok and lined up properly, you shouldn't have any belt noise with a good standard replacement belt under normal operating conditions.

If they're so good, why don't any manufacturers put them on the car from the factory? My store doesn't even stock the Gates equivalent because they have a bad come back rate, and because most of the shops won't buy them anyway.

 

Whether or not you use a load leveler, you could probably remove a couple of accessories,
and use 7/16 coarse thread bolts (?) - stuck into the front and back of the heads ?
(I can do it that way with my TrickFlow Heads)

Another option is this: When I got a junkyard 5.0, it already had "lift plates" (with ford P/Ns stamped in them) attached to the exhaust manifolds on either side of the motor ... they are pretty slick, and allow you to lift a "fully accessorized" motor with ease.

I plan to use a load leveler when I install my new motor ... this will be the first time using a load leveler for me ... even though I've changed about a half dozen motors.

 

The load leveler is a key piece of equipment imo. I put my engine in by myself with it:

 

Sweet Motor !

Did you attach 4 chains ?
- to bolts in the ends of your heads ?

 

yes and yes.

 

My load leveler should be here Tuesday. It will probably be next weekend before we can put the motor in.

I agree that is a nice motor. What are some of its specs?

I noticed you have the Ford Racing version of the FL1A on it. What is the difference between the two filters?