Question About Installing New Engine
We are getting prepared to drop the new 302 crate motor in the 65. The engine is fully assembled. We will be renting and engine hoist. I would like to know what everyones preferred method for hooking the hoist to the motor is. Does anyone have any thoughts on load levelers?
My neighbor loaned me his hoist. He had a plate that bolted to the Intake manifold where the carb. bolts on. The hoist hooked to that.
Without that plate, I'd use a chain and bolt one end to the front left of the manifold and the other end the back right of the manifold. I'd use spare bolts (hardware store) that I'm not going to use on the manifold once in the car.
A Load leveler is a very nice tool (my neighbor had one of those too). It's very useful to change the angle of the dangle. I installed the motor & transmission together. The load leveler allowed me to tilt it rear down while going in, then level it once I got closer to the final resting spot. Sure beat crawling under the car & pulling down on the transmission while someone else lowered it in.
Without that plate, I'd use a chain and bolt one end to the front left of the manifold and the other end the back right of the manifold. I'd use spare bolts (hardware store) that I'm not going to use on the manifold once in the car.
A Load leveler is a very nice tool (my neighbor had one of those too). It's very useful to change the angle of the dangle. I installed the motor & transmission together. The load leveler allowed me to tilt it rear down while going in, then level it once I got closer to the final resting spot. Sure beat crawling under the car & pulling down on the transmission while someone else lowered it in.
Just to clarify on the load leveler/carb lift plate. You can use one or the other, but they don't work together. A properly designed carb plate will have multiple holes which allow a small amount of leveling with the right hole being selected before lifting. The leveler alone must use a chain at the front and rear of the engine as it shifts weight from one to the other to level.
If you're installing an engine with no trans attached, there really is no need for a leveler with just a small amount of pre-planning on chaining it. If the carb plate is an option, use it! Uh, don't forget the flywheel...
If you're installing an engine with no trans attached, there really is no need for a leveler with just a small amount of pre-planning on chaining it. If the carb plate is an option, use it! Uh, don't forget the flywheel...
Thanks for the input guys.
The flywheel and clutch etc are already installed.
I was considering it before, but the carb plate is not an option. The shop that built the engine specifically states not to use it.
I was planning on using the lift brackets off of my 95 F150. They were removed for a header install that didn't work out, so the manifolds are back on it. I left the brackets off incase we needed them for this project.
I made spacers for them to keep them from hitting the valve covers.
The problem is that they are about 2 feet wide when positioned at the front driverside and rear passenger side. I could locate them closer together but I need something like a load leveler that is longer than most of them are to keep sideways stress off of the brackets. I don't want to screw up the threads in the heads.
I don't have many options for an attaching point since the engine is completely dressed. It is a turnkey motor that has already been tuned.
Maybe I should just take the pulley brackets off and connect to the front and back of the heads.
The flywheel and clutch etc are already installed.
I was considering it before, but the carb plate is not an option. The shop that built the engine specifically states not to use it.
I was planning on using the lift brackets off of my 95 F150. They were removed for a header install that didn't work out, so the manifolds are back on it. I left the brackets off incase we needed them for this project.
I made spacers for them to keep them from hitting the valve covers.
The problem is that they are about 2 feet wide when positioned at the front driverside and rear passenger side. I could locate them closer together but I need something like a load leveler that is longer than most of them are to keep sideways stress off of the brackets. I don't want to screw up the threads in the heads.
I don't have many options for an attaching point since the engine is completely dressed. It is a turnkey motor that has already been tuned.
Maybe I should just take the pulley brackets off and connect to the front and back of the heads.
Last edited by tx65coupe; Apr 8, 2009 at 01:16 PM.
Carb plates aren't a bad thing provided common sense is used. Using the proper bolts (long enough to not pull the threads out) would be the main concern. If the builder is so adamant about not using one I'd have pressure HIM to supply the proper method.
Small block with aluminum heads? Carb plates are used on much heavier engines every day. You don't want to thrash it, but it's no big deal when done right.
Small block with aluminum heads? Carb plates are used on much heavier engines every day. You don't want to thrash it, but it's no big deal when done right.
Carb plates aren't a bad thing provided common sense is used. Using the proper bolts (long enough to not pull the threads out) would be the main concern. If the builder is so adamant about not using one I'd have pressure HIM to supply the proper method.
Small block with aluminum heads? Carb plates are used on much heavier engines every day. You don't want to thrash it, but it's no big deal when done right.
Small block with aluminum heads? Carb plates are used on much heavier engines every day. You don't want to thrash it, but it's no big deal when done right.
Load leveler is the way to go...you can dial it in as you go... it can be a one person job.
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustan...lday%20002.jpg
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustan...lday%20002.jpg


