not the best pictures of it, but its currently un-movable due to my EFI swap in progress.

620 coils up front with 1/2 a coil cut off and 5 leaf mid eyes out back with a 5/8" lowering block

 

Who told you this? You should go back to them and tell them they are full of hooey!

Fact is, the Shelby drop is perfect for a street driven Mustang, particularly if you have changed other components like springs, shocks, sway bars, tire size, etc. It gets rid of the factory built in understeer and makes the car handle much better. With proper selection of the other components, you can actually get your Mustang to handle very well.

 

My coupe handles great with the shelby drop and I have had no problems. So it works great with street cars.

 

re read my post I accompanied street with strip. The shelby drop inhibits travel on a vehicle thats designed for the strip. I agree 100% with what you say in regards to a street/ track car. There is a big difference in suspension design when it comes to a car thats designed for a strip vs a road course car. The person who told me this has over 40 years experience in racing, and after designing my own front suspension it is most obvious.

The reason why I include street with either strip or track is b/c most people still drive the cars on the street even if they race at different venues. You wont see a track car running front skinnies and a strip car with a 10" wide front wheel, unless they are front wheel drive.

 

I would sure hope so or ive wasted my time lowering the UCA 1.25"s.

 

As nicely as I can possibly say this, BULL.

All 65 GT 350 street Shelbys, and the first coupla hundred 66's had it, then Shelby stopped to save cost. My daily driver (until I retired it) has it, over 100,000 mile, no trouble, great handling. Absolutely any 64-70 Mustang will benefit from this, the cheapest way to start improving your handling. I work with a shop that has done this on many, many 'driven' Mustangs, and they have had absolutely zero problems.

You may have been given this impression by people who do more than the recommended 1" drop. Some go 1.5", even 2". This will cause bind in the ball joint, requiring a negative wedge adapter to correct, and will cause wheel tramp, which can not be corrected.

The 1" drop was created by Klaus Arnung to match the Mustang front suspension to the prototype IRS, which was dropped due to cost. However, it was noted by Arning (and by Shelby American) that most of the improvement in handling was actually due to the altered front end geometry, not the IRS.

Aside from lowering the front about 5/8" (really a side effect) it lowers the roll center of the front below the surface of the pavement, making the suspension naturally resistant to rolling, and, important to all of us who use radial tires, it keeps the tires more square with the road in turns, something seen on modern cars. The stock 64-70 geometry allows the tire to angle away from the road, fine for a bias-ply non-belted tire, but horrible for radials. This works so well in so many ways I'd do it to a 6 cylinder grocery getter.

Doing this modification and nothing else to the front end feels like you put a thicker sway bar on. If you also put a thicker sway bar on, it doubles the effectiveness.

No, the '1' drop' absolutely allows free travel of the suspension. Of course, that's 5/8" less than stock, but so what. Cutting the springs as you did does that, too.

 

dont believe everything you hear

 

Your comparing apples to oranges dude. smell the coffee will ya gesh! either you cant read or your being ignorant.

Since your comparing it to a sway bar then why in gods name do people unbolt sway bars when they drag race? It allows the front end to transfer better. which is what the shelby drop does on a drag racing car (inhibits front end transfer) as you said it does the same thing as a sway bar.

I dont believe everything I hear and I surely dont believe everything I read on this or any other website for that matter. When information comes from someone who will spend hours adjusting brake pads for 0 drag, you tend to learn from them and there ideas

And when you sit there and spend time adjusting front ends and watching suspension travel you can develop your own reasoning as to why things dont work in certain situations.

Also Im not trying to be mean just trying to create a discussion, so dont take what I say as an attack please

 

And that would be the reason why I dont plan to drag race my car as it wasnt designed for it. They really recommend if you drop over 1" that you should install the negative wedge kit. This changes the positioning of the ball joint so it doesnt bind.

 

As I said. If you use 1", the wedge is not needed, as the ball will not bind.

The handling that results feels like a thicker sway bar, because the suspension is naturally more resistant to rolling, kinda like modern cars are designed. The 1" thick sway bar simply improves it, just ask folks like Arnung and Shelby.

I may be a bit dim, but I don't see how removing the sway bar allows transfer of weight to the rear. I can see how it might remove un-needed weight from the front, and weight, especially in the front, is crucial in drag racing. Of course, if the drag racer without the front bar gets a little weave going, he's probably going to roll. I broke an end link on the street last year, and the car was darn near uncontrollable on normal curves.

I never liked drag racing much, though, I'm more interested in road racing, since none of the roads I drive on are straight. The 'drop' is a road handling trick, one of the best, and I'll stick to road performance over drag performance. I don't use a 4.30 rear, either.