eZ

dont have my new motor yet but I do have the heads intake and gaskets. Been reading on how to port match and it seems easy enough. Is this something I should leave up to an expert?

2+2GT

No, if you have a die grinder you can do this yourself. You don't gave to go in very far, maybe 1/2" - 3/4" from the gasket surface. (see upper example)

The only exception would be if it has the bulge (either type) for the smog pump injection, which blocks the port badly, and should be removed. The shaded area around the opening in the lower image must be removed, you can use the gasket as a pattern. The hole in the head should be 1/16" smaller than the exhaust manifold or header opening to avoid a "step", which would disrupt flow.

With a cheap die grinder from Sears, etc. you can do these in a couple of hours, if you're using manifolds you'll want to clean them up, too.

This works so well I'd do it to a stock 2V with standard manifolds.

eZ

right now im referencing the intake to heads. It looks to me like the intake will need to be ported. but should the heads or intake be 1/16 larger?
[img]http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1062/img1243s.jpg[img]

fakesnakes

I fixed your image:



What you are actually doing is gasket matching or cleaning up the transition from intake to head. Any more than that should be left to a professional.

Here is an example on the modified tunnel ram on the 347 Ford in my GT40:

eZ

I hate leaving things up to people "professionals". Everytime I have taken my car to have someone else do work on it I have been dissappointed. everytime.

2+2GT

The inlet ports on the head should be 1/16 larger than the intake, and the exhaust manifolds/headers should be 1/16 larger than the exhaust ports.

Randys66gt

I learned from a guy named Fumio who worked at Weiand in the 60's & 70's and he said the port match was the most important and to only polish the exhaust so thats what I did. I used the die grinder from Harbor Freight and it worked great.
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

KMatch

There's really nothing expert about this. It's a good first step in learning to "do it yourself". The main points to keep in mind is to keep the flow going with no interruptions. A lot of folks who don't know better, refer to "porting and polishing". I bring this up as "polishing" is a bad thing when porting. On the exhaust side, it might be OK, but on the intake side, you want some texture. Leaving a bit of texture keeps the fuel/air mix mixed. If you were trying to blow a fuel/air mixture down a polished piece of long pipe, the fuel would simply fall out of suspension and you'd get nothing but air and condensed liquid on the other end. Leaving the intake side a little rough along with having a step (head port slightly larger than the intake manifold) causes a bit of turbulence and helps keep the mix vaporized.

Don't get carried away once started and try to "improve" things by doing your own porting. This IS more of an expert move. Remove too much metal in the wrong place and flow can get worse along with you hitting a water jacket as the metal isn't real thick in places. Stick to 1/2-3/4 inch deep into the ports and all will be good. Knocking off casting lines deeper won't hurt, either, just don't go hogging away metal.

2+2GT

All true. In fact, the intake side of the stock 289/302 was pretty good as-is, as long as yours don't have some obvious extra lump from being cast.

I taught myself how to do this using a stock 302 exhaust manifold. I was so easy I did my heads with no further practice.

The exhaust is not as critical for water jacket as you might suppose, Crane used to sell "Fireball" heads using Ford replacement heads. The intakes were improved, but the exhaust openings were so large they required special headers.